I'm making a table top about 34"X22" out of two pieces of MDF light
laminated together. It's going to be a bistro table 38-42" tall. I've done a
2" corner cut on all four corners so nobody breaks a rib when they
accidentally walk into the thing. I'm using 3/4"X 2-3/4" cherry as an edging
border and then I'm going to laminate the top with a nice bamboo patterned
Formica over the edging and chamfer it back once the top dries to expose the
cherry. My problem is, how do I cut the 1X3 cherry to perfect 22.5 degrees?
What's the secret? I have a Delta QT-10 table saw and I set it to "around"
22.5 but invariably I get 22.1 or 22.7, my mitres are too opened or too
closed! I need some fine tuning here. Any advice? Also while I'm here is it
OK to use contact cement for the laminate glue if I'm planning on chamfering
the edge or can I use yellow carpenter's glue? Thx.
I had planned on using the router with a flush bit to square the edges prior
to glueing the laminate. Also a chamfer bit with bearing to bevel the edge.
My problem is with cutting the mitres. I'm cutting the edge pieces a bit
proud and sanding them to make them fit. Seems to be working. Not perfect,
but then what is.
Get one of these:
Align it once with an accurate square (Incra sells those, too:
http://www.incra.biz/Products/GuaranteedSquare.html ), and make dead-on
accurate cuts at almost any angle you want.
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
It's not necessarily a perfect 22.5 degrees you want, but a perfect 90
degree angle of the joint. This can be made up of say, a 22.7 and 22.3
IOW, you want to the two matching parts to add up to 90 degrees, whether
they are precisely 22.5 degrees or not.
You can get this with a jig that insures you cut complementary angles for
the matching parts. With a well made jig, and by cutting the two mating
angles on opposite sides of the jig, you stand a better chance of cutting
complementary angles for your desired 90 degrees miter joints.
These type jigs work well as long as the width of your frame member are not
excessive and your two angles are very close to being equal, otherwise you
may get some visible error in the length of one of the joints faces ... but
that is rarely a problem.
One of the easiest ways to do that is on a table saw miter sled like the one
on my website (Jigs and Fixtures page). You can also use a shooting board
jig and a plane; or a jig on a stationary disc sander to accomplish the same
The factory edge corner from a sheet of plywood is generally sufficient as
the basis of the jig.
As in all cases with miter joints, you need to insure that opposite sides of
your frames are precisely the same length.
Talking to myself again ... compliments of that first cup of coffee.
I forgot to mention to the OP that the idea/philosophy behind cutting a
"perfect" 90 degree miter joint with the described jig(s) will also work for
his desired 45 degree angle cut for the corners of his table top.
It is the concept that is important, not the desired angle of cut.
I recently, in the last year, made a jig using the stationary disc sander to
cut 45 degree joints for a similar table top (walnut coffee table in my
projects journal below for the results).
I started to say 54 degrees ... but ... went for a run this morning in the
dark and twisted my ankle, got back, poured a cup of coffee and found out
there was no cream or sugar in the house, sat down at the computer and tried
to answer the OP's question and never could get on the right track, gave up
and went to the dentist for a root canal that was subsequently aborted,
leaving me temporarily with a hollow tooth, soon to be extracted, and one
hell of a toothache that right now seems more permanent than the tooth.
... so I elected to NOT push my luck in the shop today.
I would start by tuning up your miter saw at 90 degrees. Make a cut on the
widest board that the saw will crosscut, flip it over and see how close the
second cut is to the first then adjust. You should have a cut off piece that is
a constant width and thin as paper. Swing the saw to 22.5 and you will be good.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.