Sorry... you are right. I simply took it for granted that one wold
assume that if you take the time to build a jig, you would build one
to the best of your abilities OR requirements. To me, a jig should
work to tolerances that satisfy one's own needs. To me that was a
given for any experienced craft person, but you have made a good point
about taking things for granted. So to simplify, I believe you should
build a jig to tolerances that do the job they are designed to do as
good as possible, but with the thought of repeatability foremost in
It was a global statement that was obviously another avenue of
confusion. I should have said, "I don't understand why someone would
use a table saw to perform an operation that is better performed by a
purpose designed and built machine that is task specific for one
Having tried to cut 21/2" crown on a table saw, it sent me running
back to my miter saw. I needed stain grade work, and I was unable to
see how to cut one degree, or a half degree off with the table saw to
close a hair line crack in a joint. OK, some clarification here: it
wasn't on a shop built cabinet. It was in a house, where every
ceiling corner is a square as the framers framed it, and the tape and
float guys finished it. Each small piece of a corner may have to be
cut several times to get the right angle to compliment the out of
You are obviously a proud defender of the table saw, and looking at
your site (good work, BTW) it is easy to see how important that tool
is to you. BUT FOR ME.... if there is a better tool for the job, I am
all over it. My carpentry jobs rely on speed and accuracy. I am to
start a crown molding job in a house in a couple of weeks. I won't be
taking my table saw to do the cuts. Sadly, I have a tendency to go
with the tool that does the job the most accurately with the least
If you are comfortable with you saw, wooden jigs and calibration
equipment, why not?
I see where this is headed. And if you believe that a wood jig can
take the daily rigors of use as well as a purpose built metal jig, all
I can say is "good for you".
Since I rely on my tools for my living, I like metal guides, rails,
beds, ways, and metal on metal adjustments. I am tasked with working
on site 99% of the time, and my tools are loaded and unloaded day
after day. Just the movement knocks them out of ajdustment
sometimes. If I worked in the closed environment of a shop and had
all manner of tools on hand like the TSA Jr, dial gauges, extended
reach calipers, etc., at my finger tips, I just might feel
As with me, you are certainly welcome to your opinion.
YM obviously varies...
soooooo....do you guys think a variation of way less than 1\128
compounded over five eight inch cuts would be close enought for a dude
in his garage trying to make some nifty things for his house and
This sure is better than all the spam we been gettin as of late...
Probably not if you are making segmented pieces or pentagons.
Although, if they were compound cuts and all oriented the same at the
time they were cut, and assembled with the same orientation I'd bet no
one would notice.
Seriously, it just depends on what you are making. I would suggest
you just try you jig out, and if you like the results, all the rest is
Going back to physics measurements, if your uncertainty (variation in the
cut in this case) is 1/128, then 5 cuts would give you a total
uncertainty of 5/128, or just over 1/32". That's +/- 5/128, too, so some
cuts could be more and some could be less.
One hidden truth is that some cuts will be a little less and some will be
a little more... You'll wind up somewhere in the middle of your
uncertainty range, not at the edge cases.
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
On Apr 25, 2:56 am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
Exactly. And a great explanation, too. It illustrates well when it
is time to do something rather than to contunue to fiddle over the
And of course the optimum results would be that the cuts would somehow
be arranged (or cut) in a way that compliment each other making the
difference almost non existent.
Puckdropper is right on. Try it yourself. Unless you try to orient
your cut pieces so that the variances align as complimentary angles,
they will compound themselves.
But just as importantly, the other issues that are raised here come
into play. That is technique, repeatability of the underlying
equipment, materials, etc.
Why correct error so small that it does not factor? Very often climate
changes totally negate all accurate measurements. One day your loose parts
to a drawer fit fine, the following day the fit is too lose or too thight.
With years of experience you learn to compensate and work with mother
nature. Precice measuring tools are fine to use for a start but the results
are often out of phase with climate changes and your technique.
Keep in mind that neither is a constant, one element is constantly changing
which pretty much over rides the results/effect of a particular setting.
Calibration is important but results with any given calibration often change
with the climate and your technique. It's not a labratory invironment where
you can calibrate "everything" with materials that are a constant shape and
Experience counts for a lot in the results you get.
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