For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get basic flat hinges that
are collapsed together (to hold a small door to a carcus) to install
correctly so that the door closes properly.
I cut the mortise and that works out, but they are never perfect.
Therefore, if I put the hinges on the door first and close it to alighn
the door with the carcus, there is no way to mark the holes of the hinge
on the carcus. I tried glue, tape and nothing seems to work.
To make it a little clearer, an example of what I'm talking about is a
wall clock that has a glass door on top and below a seperator. The door
assembly fits beautifully when laid on the carcus but trying to afix it
that way is another story. I'm sure open to any ideas of people who
have struggeled with this before me.
D. J. (in email@example.com) said:
| For the life of me, I can't figure out how to get basic flat hinges
| that are collapsed together (to hold a small door to a carcus) to
| install correctly so that the door closes properly.
| I cut the mortise and that works out, but they are never perfect.
| Therefore, if I put the hinges on the door first and close it to
| alighn the door with the carcus, there is no way to mark the holes
| of the hinge on the carcus. I tried glue, tape and nothing seems
| to work.
I just had a flash - but don't know if the idea is any good or not.
How about a tiny piece of double stick carpet tape on the hinge -
align the door carefully and then press hard enough for the tape to
stick really well. Carefully open the door and drill with a Vix bit.
Once that's done, remove the tape, reposition the door, and drive the
DeSoto, Iowa USA
I match the layout lines on the door and the carcas with a square
before mounting the hinges. When drilling the pilot holes for the
hinge, I fold the hinge over the door, to get it square and to get the
proper spacing, and then use one of the self centering drill bits (vix
bits) to get the holes centered. If they aren't centered, the hinge
will move, and the door won't go where you need it to be. I never could
get this to work by just eyeing the centers.
I didn't try carpet tape but did try double stick and super glue. I'll
give it a try because I'm game for anything that would work. For one
thing, I have to be sure not to "finish" the mortise area so that the
tape would adhere better. Thanks for the reply.
It's really not that bad a thing Don. Set a hinge on either the door or the
jamb and note how much the barrel protrudes from the edge of the piece.
Make a precise measurement. By "set", I mean to mortise in and screw down
one half of the hinge. It really does not matter how much the barrel
protrudes, as long as the hinge plate sits ok on the door. One thing you
can do is to lay the hinge plate on the door and let the other half flop
down on to the door. Push the barrel in towards the door until you get both
half of the hinge in contact with the door - one on the edge, one on the
face. As long as the hinge plate does not stick out beyond the edge of the
door, this will give you a good location for the hinge on the door edge.
Scribe it with a sheetrock knife, mortise it and screw it home.
Measure the setback of the barrel from the edge of the door and hold the
jamb hinge plate on the jamb, at the same setback. Mark it, mortise it and
screw it in.
Put the other hinge(s) on the same way, and hang the door. Don't forget to
allow for an eigth inch reveal at the top of the door.
1. Use a jig/template the same length as the stiles/inside of case to
cut the mortises in the stiles/case.
2. Use the same jig to cut the mortises in the doors *BUT* adjust the
position to allow for the clearance between case and door tops/bottoms;
i.e, the jig will protrude past the door tops/bottoms by whatever
clearance you used.
3. Place hinge in door mortise and make holes for screws.
4. Place hinge in door mortise and make holes for screws.
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Good variety of suggestions so far and another one is make something
with pointed ends to fit in the second half of the hinge and secure
with tape. Close door and drill where indicated. Not tested just
thought after reading the others.
I use measurements. Never fails. I have this 12" stainless steel rule
I bought from LV 17-18 years ago. What is special about it, is that the
first increment actually *is* a 1/8 or 1/16 or (flipping it over) 1/32
Then, a sharp pencil and how can it fail?
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