I am looking for something with low toxicity that I don't have to wear
gloves to apply or applies well with just a brush, something that can
be fixed if something does happen like I can sand it back down and re
do it without adverse affects, I mainly use linseed oil and I believe
its Dutch oil? or a mix of linseed other things to add pigment/color to
the linseed, but I want a finish to go over my color that will give it
that wet hight gloss or semi gloss look.
Warning labels tend to turn me off to products. It will be used for
finishing custom made pistol grips and gunstocks so needs to be able to
take handling type wear and continue to look good.
I don't mind using my hands or a rag to apply I would just rather not
read a warning label that says if I do I'm going to lose my sight in x
amount of time and so forth, i.e. formbies which my father has used to
hand finish furniture for years untill all the sudden it has a warning
Anyhow thanks for all your replies, having a heck of a time finding
something on my own.
You won't. Warning labels today are so commonplace as to be meaningless.
In a few more years I suspect that they are going to be tattooing "warning,
breathing air can be hazardous to your health" on our noses at birth. Used
to be that they had some relation to real dangers, now they report the
ungrounded fears of some loon in the legislature.
The labels are meant to protect the companies from lawsuits arising from
fools misusing their product.
"The ultimate result of shielding men from folly is to fill the world with
fools" - Herbert Spencer, 1891
I think I recall some studies showing that prolonged exposure to
electrical fields (such as are found close to power cords) may increase
the likelihood of cancer.
Extrapolating this to an electrical cord at household voltages may or
may not be valid.
I don't think that "This product contains chemicals, including lead, known
to the State of California to cause (cancer, and) birth defects or other
reproductive harm." is directed at those who would wrap the power cord to
their toaster around them and then sit for weeks at a time pushing down the
handle every time it pops up.
I can't tell if you were being facetious or if you really do believe that
having government-mandated warning labels on _everything_ does something
other than cause people to ignore warning labels.
For gunstocks and grips a mix of BLO (boiled linseed oil) thinned with
turpentine seems to be the favorite and one used by a close friend and avid
gun collector/gunsmith. This polished with a good paste wax will hold up
under most any circumstance.
I have done this but havent found a wax that really does the job yet
for getting a nice gloss finish, I got it to a dull gloss on one
shotgun I did a while back but I think it was more the 20x coats of
thinned boiled linseed than the liquid wax I went over it with. Actualy
I think thats still one of my favorite stocks just because its so blond
not many guns look good with really blond stocks but that one does.
20x coats maybe a bit much however, if its dried thoroughly and rubbed down
with 000 steelwool, you should be able to get a high gloss with a quality
hard paste wax.
I like blond stocks. I made a stock for a Winchester 30-30 brush gun from
Birdseye Maple. Still looks great.
: I am looking for something with low toxicity that I don't have to wear
: gloves to apply or applies well with just a brush, something that can
: be fixed if something does happen like I can sand it back down and re
: do it without adverse affects, I mainly use linseed oil and I believe
: its Dutch oil? or a mix of linseed other things to add pigment/color to
: the linseed, but I want a finish to go over my color that will give it
: that wet hight gloss or semi gloss look.
Probably your best bet is shellac. Can be as glossy as you like
(or dulled with steel wool), is easily repaired and stripped, and
cheap. The solvent is alcohol; in commercially mixed stuff,
like Bullseye, it's likely going to contain some wood alcohol, so
apply in a room with ventilation.
: Warning labels tend to turn me off to products. It will be used for
: finishing custom made pistol grips and gunstocks so needs to be able to
: take handling type wear and continue to look good.
For that, maybe a varnish liek Waterlox would be a better bet.
Exposure to the solvents in most finishes, in the amounts we
use, is not going to harm you. A couple of possible exceptions
are lacquer, and
a finish I once used made by Behlen called 'woodturner's finish".
I don't know whjat was in th latter, but it made me a bit ill using it.
And lacquer thinner is pretty toxic to breath, over time anyway.
-- Andy Barss
: : I am looking for something with low toxicity that I don't have to wear
: : gloves to apply or applies well with just a brush, something that can
: : be fixed if something does happen like I can sand it back down and re
: : do it without adverse affects, I mainly use linseed oil and I believe
: : its Dutch oil? or a mix of linseed other things to add pigment/color to
: : the linseed, but I want a finish to go over my color that will give it
: : that wet hight gloss or semi gloss look.
: Probably your best bet is shellac.
As an additional note, before someone jumps in with "shellac
isn't water resistant". It's used on canoe bottoms, particularly
guide canoes that go through shallow water and over rocks.
-- Andy Barss
On Wed, 7 Jun 2006 20:23:23 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
For a gunstock? Remember the old tables that would get white rings
when you set a glass with some condensation on them? That was
shellac. Don't get me wrong, I really like the stuff, but I don't
think I'd use it on something that had any reasonable chance of
I think Waterlox is making a waterborne poly these days as well. It
(the brand) comes highly recommended at the hardwood dealer for
appearance and abrasion resistance on floors- it's probably good
enough for a grip.
It almost certainly had a warning label of some type on it, but I made
a shifter knob about a year ago and coated it with helmsman spar
polyurethane out of a spray can. 22,000 miles and four complete
seasons later, it's looking better than it was new (better because it
is cherry, and the UV has darkened it.) Very glossy, and handling has
just polished it. And I do a fair amount of driving with bits of
abrasive gunk on my hands going from jobsites back to the shop, so
it's got at least a fairly good abrasion resistance.
: For a gunstock? Remember the old tables that would get white rings
: when you set a glass with some condensation on them? That was
: shellac. Don't get me wrong, I really like the stuff, but I don't
: think I'd use it on something that had any reasonable chance of
: getting wet.
The white rings only occur with shellac that has a high wax content.
Dewaxed shellac is very water-resistant. One of the prominent finishers
and authors (I think it was Jeff Jewitt) did a test involving
leaving standing water on dewaxed shellac, and found zero water
penetration after 24 hours, IIRC.
-- Andy Barss
On Thu, 8 Jun 2006 05:38:01 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Barss
Really? That's good to know- I'll have to try it out. There have
been a lot of projects where I wanted to use it, but didn't care to
risk damaging my new project when someone set down a pop can on it, so
I used poly instead.
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