Hi all:
This is my first dresser project. Face frame with inset doors I am building the drawers first. My boxes are 36" wide x 23" deep, dovetailed construction. I have to add a 3/4" face to this depth also. I have not glued them up, so I can shorten them up if nessary. I am looking at the Blum specs for the slidesI would like full extension, like the 430E6000 Any thoughts oh great dust makers
Accuride's nice, too. Good luck. Tom
I am not set any any one brand.
Do you even need hardware? Tom
I could do the wood runner thing, but this is practice for future Kitchn cabinets. Not my first project, but proubly the most exacting yet, inset doors and 8 drawers. I made an Entertainment center with pull out Cd storage. Used borg hardware, crappy rails . I will proubly order one set to play with. The accuride site does have nice guides for installation.
Although sequencing your skills development is an excellent idea, IMHO that is not worth compromising the character of a dresser which, if done well will be around alot longer than a kitchen.
I figure the half-life of a kitchen is about 15-20 years (half of them are re-remodeled in that time frame) even if built well. Well-built dressers should have a half-life of four times that.
Maybe I'm just being a snob, but metal glides in a dresser look so "wallmart". Please don't do it.
-Steve
My sympathies in advance ... reconsider, and build them after your casework is complete and you decide upon the slides you are going to use.
I agree with Swingman on this one. Build the dresser and then fit the drawers to the cabinet. Much easier to tweak a drawer to fit and opening than to tweak an opening to fit an existing drawer.
david
David wrote: I agree with Swingman on this one. Build the dresser and then fit the drawers to the cabinet. Much easier to tweak a drawer to fit and opening than to tweak an opening to fit an existing drawer.
(that's why I wished the OP luck.) Tom
I don't know much about woodworking, but I think you're supposed to build the case first, then the drawers. Each drawer then can be custom fit to the opening if need be. It would be really hard to build a case around a set of drawers and get the same fit.
Mike
If you build it this way this time, you will probably reverse the order if you ever do it again.
Not a bad Idea to plan the size of the drawers first because with many DT jigs you are limited to specific increments in drawer height but not a great idea building them first.
Personally I do not like metal slides on pieces of furniture. I would suggest simply building hard wood web frames and drawer sides and build to close tolerances.
Even undermount metal glides?
brian
I think the idea is that you don't want to hide the joinery. Undermounts or no hardware makes for a much cleaner look. I really liket he feel of a ball bearing slide though. I'm using full extension slides on my current project, but it's a shop project so I don't care so much.
I'm also very interested in the idea of nature combined with technology. I could see somehow working the drawer slides into a project so that they look like they belong, almost like a cyborg-tree that decided to grow metal drawer slides, maybe by air-brushing the slides so that the colors exactly match the wood near the front of the drawer, but turn into hard shiny metal as you go back. Never mind. I'm just babbling and thinking out loud.
brian
I second the motion. There should be no metal in a dresser meant as fine furniture.
The last kitchen I built I used Hittich QuadroV6, full extension undermounts. A well engineered slide, with a very expensive feel and, being completely hidden, one which I wouldn't hesitate to use on some furniture projects.
Cabinet Makers Hardware. I see their catalog has Quadro V6 Concealed Drawer Slides.
Yes, that's where I buy them. Not the ea$iest folks in town to deal with, but not a bad place for one $top cabinet hardware $hopping.
On that same note, there is a place tucked into a warehouse strip center off of old Katy Road that sells slides and hardware _real_ cheap. Can't remember the name, but my truck knows the way ... I could probably dig it up if you're not familiar with the place. That said, the Hittich slides would probably be too high dollar for them to handle.
I have not problems with them. I bought Kreg pocket hole screws there a couple of months ago, the 2.5" ones for 2x material, 500 screws for about $10.
When you get a chance I would appreciate the name and or address.
Looks like they moved. They claim to have the same low prices, but it sounds as if someone else is runing it now.
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