Help: Phillips screw 1/2 inch from the wall

[Michael]

I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in th e corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces ( going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the b it flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enou gh room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I' ve had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it d one manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[hubops]

[DerbyDad03]

the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small hea d, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem . Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not en ough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

By "remove" do you mean "Remove as one piece" or "Remove in any way possibl e, it's going the trash."?

If it's going in the trash, start breaking it into pieces until you have better access to that one last lonely cleat, hanging by itself on the wall.

Once that's all that is left, access to the offending screw will present itself in a multitude of ways.

Heck, if it's going the trash, cut around the screw (or cut the head off) with a multi-function tool, remove the unit and then deal with the screw later.

[DerbyDad03]

the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small hea d, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem . Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not en ough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

As far as the offset screwdriver, I have had better luck with a miniature ratchet and quality Philips bit.

Something like one of these:

[Markem]

Do you have a 3/8 socket set with a spring extension? Pick the socket that fits the phillips bit.

[Michael]

Markem,

This was it! I bought a phillips head 3/8 socket and they came right out!

Mike

[whit3rd]

if it's too close to the wall for the power driver, even a manual screwdriver is likely to need some tilt; so, use a screwdriver with a long (18 inch) shank. It might have some small angle, but so must the driver that put it into that corner.

[Bob La Londe]

I'm trying to remove a triangle-shaped entertainment center installed in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spaces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no problem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

******************

1/4" drive - two modest length extensions and a universal joint in the middle. A good universal Not a crappy wore out floppy one. A wobble end extension might be enough, and won't flop like a wore out universal joint.

1/4" deep socket on the end with your driver in it. Needs to be deep to reduce flop. Need to have a longish bit driver so it sticks out enough. Use a small block or shim behind the extension to set the angle correctly from the wall. Use your finger tips to hold the angle correctly up and down. Use your drill driver to apply adequate forward pressure so the bit doesn't skip in the screw head. I've run across Phillips tips with serrations on the blade faces that can help with this, but in any case use a fresh new sharp driver tip.

This is one thing I might have done more of than some of these wood working pros. Turn screws. As a communications tech and licensed communications contractor I've had to turn a shit ton ** of screws in the last few decades. Often frozen in place and in odd locations with little or no clearance. (I retired from contracting the end of 2016. I think my licenses expired last month.)

** shit ton... kind of like a regular ton, but nastier.

[Leon]

I have found that an impact river will remove stripped head Phillips screws.

[DerbyDad03]

n the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small h ead, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight spac es (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no probl em. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get t he bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's not enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, an d I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to get it done manually.

Sometimes. And sometimes the screw wins.

I just did that about an hour ago trying to remove those damn rotor screws that Honda uses.

The drill was much faster. ;-)

[Clare Snyder]

Even better with a good 10 inch blade philips driver - the angle is so small then that it is not a problrm.

[-MIKE-]

Take a nail set or metal drill center punch and a hammer to knock them out. Set the punch in one of the grooves and angle it so you can hit it with the hammer, counter-clockwise. I have found this to be the easiest way to remove them... oh, and never put them back in. They are only there for easier assembly in the factory.

Yeah, I know you already drilled them out, but for those listening in, that's how you do it.

[DerbyDad03]

in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight sp aces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no pro blem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's no t enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to ge t it done manually.

I've tried that method and it's been hit or miss (NPI) as has the impact driver method. Those screws are really soft and LOS and environment really make a difference.

Drilling never fails and the remaining shank *usually* spins right out with a pair of pliers.

[-MIKE-]

All true. And given that they are completely unnecessary, even if you messed up the threads in the hole, it wouldn't matter.

[Leon]

The subject was about removing wood screws, not mechanical machine thread screws. You need impact rated bits for that application.

[Jack]

Long ago when I was a kid, and was rebuilding engines, doing body work on rusted out hulks, I had an impact driver that never failed to get out screws, and never stripped the head if used before the head was stripped, and generally worked if the had was stripped. A few years back I DAGS for one of these and couldn't find one hit. Today, I found them all over the place. The one I used 60 years ago was super quality, can't vouch for this one, but it should be in everyone's tool box.

For those that don't know, you smack the tool with a big hammer and it turns the screw just a tad. Works like a charm on stuck screws with no damage.

[Electric Comet]

cats paw

[DerbyDad03]

my cat is using her paw right now

will not let me borrow it

. .

[DerbyDad03]

in the corner of the room. It is mounted using vertical cleats, with small head, longish phillips screws about 1/2 inch from the wall and in tight sp aces (going in sideways). If I had full access with my drill driver, no pro blem. Out in a second. But the diameter of my drill driver won't let me get the bit flush with the screw. If I angle it, I'll strip it, and there's no t enough room anyway. They are in there really good, and they are longish, and I've had no luck getting enough pressure on an offset screwdriver to ge t it done manually.

You mean like that broken bit which came with the impact driver?

[Leon]

No, like the ones in the stores specifically rated for impact duty.