Help-design idea

[Ray]

I'm working on a coffee table and need some ideas. The table is 18H x 21 x 52. It is being made out of maple which I am planning to stain/dye a light cherry.

I did my dry fit and SWMBO said "It needs something". The table is very plain with no drawers or lower shelf. It looks something like this:

101&storeId=12&productId=13559&langId=-1&parentCats=10105*10311except it has tapered legs. The top has been rounded over top 3/8 and bottom 1/4, the apron is 3 3/8 and set back from the outside edge of the legs about 1/8.

I'm thinking of maybe a bead routed along the bottom of the apron or a thin piece tacked to the bottom of the apron with a 1/8 bullnose.

She also suggested a 'V' cut into the top around the perimeter like they do on the furniture in the stores to hide the sloppy joints. I would dread cutting into the top, one slip and back for more lumber.

Any suggestion/ideas would be appreciated.

[toolguy]

Here's a couple more ideas:

-Do a simple inlay strip of about an 1/8" around all 4 sides of the table top. Say about 1" - 3" in from the edge (whatever looks good to you). Do it in a nice contrasting wood.

-Add some mock through tenon pieces on the legs opposite the aprons. ???

[iandodd]

I would suggest not staining or dyeing it. You've made a table out of maple; don't try to make it something it's not. If you want a cherry table, make it out of cherry. I don't understand people trying to pass off one wood, especially as one as noble as maple, as another.

My $0.02 worth, Ian

Ray wrote:

x 21 x 52. It is being made out of maple which I am planning to stain/dye a light cherry.

[Trevor]

I agree. I don't think maple takes stain very well anyway...

[e-mail] wrote:

[Nate Perkins]

"Ray" wrote in news: [e-mail]:

With the tapered legs, it might also look good with a slight curve along the bottom of the apron. Just an idea ...

I'm not sure what 'V' cut you mean, but I am wondering if you might be able to do it by the scratch stock method.

[Ray]

I'm too afraid to cut into this top to try something like the inlay, maybe on another project. What about expansion and contraction on a wood top with an inlay running perpindicular?

[Ray]

I need to do something to even out the color. I matched the boards as best I could but there are still some variations. Will maple turn orange like pine does when poly is applied? I have plenty of scrap to experiment with...

[Ray]

The curve sounds like a good option. I guess I'll have to mock one up for her or find a sample.

I'm not familiar with the scratch stock method. Explain please...

[toolguy]

Variations in wood can be a negative or a positive. Try approaching it from another point of view. The wood doesn't turn orange, the finish does. Oil based poly has a yellow colour to it and will darken over time. Water based poly is clear and stays clear. My personal opinion would be don't use oil based. IMO, it does not improve the look of maple.

[Bruce]

On Mon, 17 Jan 2005 20:12:25 -0700, toolguy wrote (in article ):

I think given the general "blocky" design on the IKEA page, using a roundover on the top is counter to the basic shape. Perhaps a 45 degree chamfer on the underside of the top?

-Bruce

[Bruce]

On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 04:40:39 -0700, Ray wrote (in article ):

You really need a dye versus a pigment stain for Maple to avoid blotchs and get a good even (and deep) color. check out the samples at

-Bruce

[Robatoy]

And when it does take stain... blotch city.

[Nate Perkins]

"Ray" wrote in news:n [e-mail]:

It's a small homemade scraping tool usually used for making relatively shallow grooves or beads along the edge of a project. See

for example.