Thanks Bob and Bruce.
The email address is good, I filter it for spam, so just use a subject
I had discovered these threads earlier. I took the bolts out and added
lock washers based on your suggestion. Has anybody got a torque value.
I don't want to strip the threads or break a bolt. On the other hand,
I had the blade adjusted to .0001 a week ago, and it 'lost' the
adjustment over about 30 cuts, so I want them to be tight enough so it
doesn't happen again.
Sure would be nice to make this adjustment in 15minutes. I spent about
5 hours last night. The problem was that I'd get the adjustment
bang-on, then when I tightened up the trunnion bolts, the adjustment
would be all-wrong again.
1. I clamped the trunnions to the tabletop. This way, when the bolts
are loosened up, the assembly stays 'put', and the after-tightening
alignment is alot closer to what I started with.
2. I found that the front trunnion bolt on the right-hand side (facing
the saw) had the most detrimental effect on the alignment when doing
final tightening. I tightened this bolt to full torque first, then
made any corrections, then tightened up the other bolts.
Using these two 'tricks', I was able to get the blade to within .002"
Cuts on the crosscut sled are pretty much burn-free now. Should I be
happy and call it quits and just pray it 'stays put'?
I just sent you the two postings I spoke of earlier. Main points:
1. Turn that tablesaw over and remove the undercarriage. It's a one time job
that will save you grief later on. Clean, lube and adjust. Couple of drift
pins to remove - one on each wheel for blade height and bevel. With the TS
upside down, you can remove everything, inspect, de-burr and replace the
bolts in 30 min.
2. Be sure the flats that mate with the lands on the tabletop for the
trunnions are flat (no burr's). Use a small mill bastard file to touch them
3. Replace the two front trunnion bolts using threaded rod and couplers as I
explained in the follow-up post. Makes adjusting everything so much easier.
4. When all the burrs or other defects on the lands are fixed, the new bolts
and couplers are installed and evrything is cleaned, and lubed - assemble
everything so its just snug - don't bolt anything down tight. Flip the TS
5. Now align the tie-bars for parallel as mentioned in the procedure.
Trunnion bolts only need to be snug while aligning the tie bars. The big
lock nuts on the tie-bars (Nyloks) are about 1-1/2" dia as I recall (and you
will need to use a strong-arm bar to break them loose. When you tighten
them - do not jerk on the bar - just snug each one up evenly and smoothly.
There is no torque setting but you'll know when tight is tight. The tie-bars
must be parallel or the blade adjustment will never be correct when you use
the blade for a bevel cut. I ended up with a 10" sanding disk from Sears to
use as the flat plate. Remove any sandpaper and clean any residue off with
6. With the tie-bars adjusted, back off on the trunnion bolts slightly so
that the whole top can be moved easily. Now do the blade alignment
7. You can now easily loosen and tighten the front trunnion bolts (due to
the modified bolts in front) and move the undercarriage around easily. Just
snug the bolts so it doen't move to easily. If it doesn't stay in one spot
now after you do the final tightening (1 turn before they break), then you
have a problem with either a trunnion block or a land on the TS top. There
are only 4 points of contact where the trunnions mate with the top so it
shouldn't be too hard to find the culprit. You may need to add a shim or
file a land down a touch if there are not all the same height.
I'm making this sound more difficult than it really is. Just use your parts
breakdown to see how everything comes apart, keep your cool and you do not
need to tighten those trunnion bolts so tight that they'll never move
again - just good and snug. Ever tighten the adjutment bolt on an alternator
after replacing a belt - about that tight. Use a 6" box-end wrench to
tighten them - not a 1/2 drive ratchett wrench and you should be alright.
But if you do break one - start with my first post and read from the
- posted on February 10, 2005, 7:35 pm
Thanks, Bob, lot's of detail, I appreciate it. It sounds like alot of
work, but worth it if you can get an adjustment done in 15 minutes that
stays in place longer than a week :-)