Grizzly 1023 SL users: a dumb question

[Ron Truitt]

I have recently been putting my Grizz to work after buying it in December.

I was looking to change the blade and used the enclosed wrench to try to remove the nut holding it on so I could get the blade off.

I had installed the blade in December when assembling the saw and put a light coat of oil on the large nut that holds the blade collar on the arbor.

I looked through the owne's manual but did not see anything mentioned to use to change blades other than the wrench mentioned above.

While slightly turning the nut I noticed I was also turning something else on the arbor on the other side of the blade.

Is there some secret to getting the #@%^& blade off the arbor? I changed blades many times on my old saw and never had a problem.

Is there some sort of gizmo that would make it easier?

Thanks,

RonT

[James "Cubby" Culbertson]

I've not seen anything else turning on the arbor when changing blades on my "pretty new" 1023SL. Silly question, but are you turning the nut in the correct direction?

[MikeG]

My 1023SL has flat spots on the arbor shaft so you can use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the arbor shaft. I seem to remember that Grizzly supplied 1 wrench, and I supplied the one for the arbor. (also remember lefty loosie).

Good Luck

Mike

[loutent]

Hi Ron,

I started using the "Blade-Loc" gizmo a couple of months ago - even before I got my 1023SL. About $15 IIRC.

It works fine except that you do have to raise the blade into it before it grabs, but since I started buying these fancy, expensive blades I figured that I did not want to chance chipping the carbide.

Standing at the operators side, pull the wrench toward yourself (i.e. left as you are facing the arbor) with your right hand as you hold the Blade-Loc down on the table with your left hand.

I change blades quite often & have not noticed anything peculiar.

Great saw!

Lou

[Dave Anderson]

The clue that I picked up is the "light coat of oil" you put on this a NO NO! the oil has worked up on to the blade washer preventing it fom the friction that it need to drive the blade or let you remove the nut buy just holding the blade.. After you remove the blade, clean the arbor blade washers and the blade it self . if the blade slips when you try to remove it i will slip in heavy cuts

[TEF]

As MikeG mentioned earlier, it is really easy to use the arbors built-in flat spots to hold the arbor while loosening the blade nut with a second wrench. In this way, the blade can be removed whether it is in a raised or lowered position. The wrench needed for this is usually a simple stamped steel bar that with parallel tines at one end that slip over the flat spots. Mine did not come from Grizzly, but rather from an old Craftsman RAS.

As I understand it, the arbor threads have be cut so that the nut will tighten was the blade is used. For that reason, one just has to snug up the nut and washer rather that really bearing down on the wrench. While I have the 1023S rather than the 1023SL, I've never had a blade nut come loose nor one struck fast to the arbor. Finally, since the arbor is located to the rear of the saw table, it seems much easier to change blades by standing on the outfeed side of the unit. One can look right down on the arbor and there is less reaching.

[Ron Truitt]

Facing the arbor nut I am attempting to move the nut counterclockwise, which I believe should be correct.

RonT

[MikeG]

That's correct.

Mike G

[George E. Cawthon]

That is correct on any saw I've seen. The nut tends to tighten with rotation of the saw. I think your main problem is that you put oil on the thread; that means that the nut will tighten much more than a dry nut. I am sure some people do, but I've never seen anyone use anything but dry on a radial arm or table saw.

Don't know the saw but the other end of the arbor has a pulley on it, doesn't it? If so you should be able to hold it still by tightening the belt and squeezing the belt or by putting a large pipe wrench on it. Or better, it if does have two flat sides on the inside, get a piece of iron strap and and make a cut out that will fit the flats or buy a proper wrench.

And, if you get the but off, clean off the oil and never do that again.

[SonomaProducts.com]

Ron,

Not sure exactly what the problem is but of you don't have a second wrench, ate you at least letting the blade cut into some wood or soemthing to keep it from spinning as you try to release the nut.

Having the blade cut into so material as you try to loosen tne arbor nut ensures you are trying in the right direction.

The other this to keep in mind is that vibration is the least resitable for for metalic opbejects so some "light" tapping with a hammer on the end of the wrench can encourage a stuck nut to come loose.

I change the blade 2-3 times a day when I'm in the shop so I've never had one sieze up but those acme threads can sieze that tightly that a little elbow grease won't cut them loose.

Finally, you could soak it with some penetrating oil/WD40/rust breaker for a bit first. Frankly I think oil or not on the arbor is really no issue. We always left it dry but just had to replace the arbor on a Unisaw and thje new one came drenched in oil and we've just used it like that.

[Plumb Bob]

on 4/11/2005 1:27 PM SonomaProducts.com said the following: