..and made a few test cuts on some oak, pine and walnut. It certainly is
better than what I am used to but it doesn't seem lo live up to the
expectations I had after all of the glowing posts here.
I guess I will have to recheck the setup on the saw before I make a final
decision as to whether it was money well spent.
: ..and made a few test cuts on some oak, pine and walnut. It certainly is
: better than what I am used to but it doesn't seem lo live up to the
: expectations I had after all of the glowing posts here.
Make very sure the blade and fence are both well aligned to the
miter slot -- if they're off, you won't get top performance.
-- Andy Barss
I have a theory about the WWII. It has such a reputation that everyone
who buys it immediately tunes their saw until they get perfect glue line
rips and glass smooth crosscuts. Take any other decent quality, brand
new combination blade on a perfectly tuned saw, and who's to say you
wouldn't get the exact same results? But if you slap on a $30 Freud and
get burning or blade marks, you're a lot more likely to curse the blade
than adjust your rip fence or check your arbor runout.
It's the $100 price tag and the gold-plated reputation that makes the
WW2 such a great blade. Nobody's going to be satisfied with mediocre
results after shelling out a c-note for a saw blade.
That's my story and I'm sticking with it. At least until I scrape
together a c-note for my very own Forrest.
To correctly judge a WWII you have to understand that it is a _combination_
blade. My Forrest Chopmaster does a better job of crosscutting than the
WWII, but the WWII does a better job of both crosscutting and ripping than
any other combination blade TS blade I've owned.
I installed a WWII in my already well aligned ancient
Craftsman saw a couple of days ago. I have never had a blade
that works that well. Whether it's actually worth the price
or not, is up to the individial user.
At the last woodshow in Milwaukee I broke down and bought one at the show
price. 94 bucks plus tax. The next day SWMBO asked me to trim down a
shagbark hickory branch, about wrist thick, that she was working on.
Crosscut. Just take off a quarter inch or so from the length so the end
isn't rough. I put it on the crosscut sled, zero clearance insert, zipped
it through, brought it back. She takes it, starts to say "thank you" and
stops. She keeps rubbing her fingers over the cut. "What else did you do?
It's like glass!" She was used to seeing the results of my first generic
blade or the $50 Freud I bought later. "Nothin but that new WW2, honey."
She gets this impressed look on her face and says something like "Oh. Um,
I will admit to tuning the saw as much as my equipment and inexperience
would allow, but that was after I bought the Freud, not the WWII. It's
still off by a few thousandths here and there, but DAMN that's a nice
Chuck, My first WWII amazed me. I got shiny smooth rips and burnished
crosscuts. It cut this well until I bent it. I immediately bought a new
one and it cut just as well... I sent the older bent one to Forrest for
some polishing and body work and I believe it cuts as good or better than
the new one.
Consider rotating the blade on the arbor 180 degrees and see if your cuts
improve. No arbor and no blade is perfect. You may have a combination of
imperfections with your current mounting.
FWIW I use only the WWI on my RAS and I find it usually takes a few weeks
use to achieve optimum cuts. From what I understand it actually takes a bit
of time to break in a new blade, and this was from Jim Forrest.
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
: Chuck, My first WWII amazed me. I got shiny smooth rips and burnished
: crosscuts. It cut this well until I bent it. I immediately bought a new
: one and it cut just as well... I sent the older bent one to Forrest for
: some polishing and body work and I believe it cuts as good or better than
: the new one.
: Consider rotating the blade on the arbor 180 degrees and see if your cuts
: improve. No arbor and no blade is perfect. You may have a combination of
: imperfections with your current mounting.
Hey Leon, how did you bend the blade ?
Same way I did, IIRC ... cranked some tilt in without first removing the
zero clearance insert. Most folks with a tilting arbor table saw will
eventually do this at least once in their woodworking lives.
If you are seeing tooth marks especially in cross cuts, either your TS setup
is out or you could possibly have a bad blade. Take the blade back to the
local WoodCraft and have them mount the blade on "their" saw and see how it
cuts. If it does better, you will know to look more closely at your set up.
The WWII I installed a couple of days ago cross cut some
1.75 thick maple as well as advertised. Check your alignment
and be optimistic.
That said, I'm not sure I would buy one again. The cuts are
too smooth for an optimum glue joint and a little sanding on
exposed surfaces doesn't bother me.
I do get a kick out of a tool that works so well that I
marvel at it.
Check the blade for runout. I got one a few weeks ago that
was .005" out. Took it back to LeeValley and got a new one
that is *dead on*. Cuts Maple like butter and leaves a
glass smooth crosscut that sandpaper would "dull".
Had some tile today to look at the setup of my saw. I was surprised how far
out it was. The blade was not parallel to the miter slot and the fence was
not parallel to either the blade or miter slot. After making adjustments I
putting the old blade back on, made some cuts, followed by the WWII and some
I have to admit, it does now seem to be quite impressive.
Thanks for your input.
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