good deal Quick-change drill/countersink

I don't see the full kit that I have anymore. I bought it for $15 at a garage sale. Looked untouched. I'll post a pic soon.

Tapered? I thought you'd want a step for that purpose. I'm with

-MIKE-, tapered drills are for tapered screws.

Yes it is.

I don't know anything about that particular brand. I was addressing tapered bit specifically.

Yes and no. Newer, designed, screws have a different set of threads at the top that will shear out a section of wood wider than the threads at the top of the screw to keep the screw from "jacking up" the board being held down.

Well, that's just a blanket statement for which I have to call BS. I've drivel thousands of holes using that same design and believe me, every screw was permanent. We develop different techniques for different materials we are using. Softer woods don't need a "clearance hole" because the upper threads will simply strip out the wood in the board being fastened. And in hardwoods where you don't have a "clearance hole" I find it faster to simply let the screws "jack up" the hardwood material being fastened until enough threads have engaged in the material to which the hardwood is being attached, then simply back out the screw until the board that is jacked-up drops back down flush, then drive home the screw.

I will on occasion drill out a clearance hole, but your statement is painting with too broad of a brush.

This is more expensive but seems more useful.

I have a similar package from Rockler for self centered drilling pilot holes for cabinet hinges and drawer slide screws. Hard to beat.

Both Makita and DeWalt make the QuikChange driver/countersink drill bit cheaper than LV's ... had them both for years and they're still good to go. The Makita's are a little easier to use, and not as bulky.

Love my Fuller stuff best of all.

but i have to research what bugle head means because i am a bit confused on that still

my countersink worked fine for the small bugle cabinet screws i use they are cheap black screws probably #6

it starts to sound like a countersink mismatch a bugle head needs the right countersink and so does the convetional head

The 'bugle head' is intended to crush the paper surface and imbed slightly when driven in sheetrock/drywall/gypsum board materials, so the surface can be spackled flat. Some wood screws for trim are 'small head' types, and apparently are intended to wedge into a predrilled hole (often the tip of the screw is a drill) in wood or fake-wood trim boards..

Neither the 'bugle head' nor the 'trim head/ small head"' are well-specified as to shape, so I see no easy way to countersink for those. They hold well in wood, and are sold as wood screws, but one ought not to use them for cabinetry (nor, for that matter, for mounting door hinges).

In at least one case ("Cortex") a "trim head" screw comes with a bit having a marker band so that when the marker contacts the surface it is sunk to the right depth in "fake-wood" trim boards and comes with a plug of the same material as the board that can be set almost invisibly with a single hammer blow (not with two mind you--if you don't get it all the way down with the first one it's buggered enough that it won't ever seat right).