It's hard to tell from the picture on the webpage,
but those don't appear to have tapered drills. If
they don't, then they're essentially useless.
If you really want a set of drill/countersink bits,
get a set of Fullers (no quickchange there, but at
least they'll work the way they're susposed to).
You really do not need tapered drills for today's screws BUT !!!
Tapered drill bits compared to standard twist drill bits, at least for
me, are much easier to start precisely where I want and I don't have any
issue with bit wander at the beginning of the drilling. The pointed end
tends to stay where you put it.
John, they are useful, you are assuming that we are still using old Wood
screws. I don't use them much anymore. Most everything available now out
classes those. They don't split the wood as easily, because there is no
taper, they have deep threads, and cut like razors.
I have a set of tapered drills, and I haven't used them in 15-20 years.
Well that's just not so. The idea behind a tapered drill
like the Fullers is to drill a pilot hole (the tapered
part) followed by a clearance hole. And I don't care
what sort of screw you use, if you're doing quality work
you only want the threads engaged in the lower of the
parts you're joining.
This Lee Valley set doesn't appear to drill a clearance
hole in the upper part - and thus it's only useful for
quick and dirty work, not for anything intended to be
FWIW these are the ones I use and they are significantly less expensive
than the Fuller. They seem to still drill as well as when they were new
several years ago.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)50215143&sr=8-10&keywords=taper+drills
I don't know anything about that particular brand. I was addressing
tapered bit specifically.
Yes and no. Newer, designed, screws have a different set of threads at
the top that will shear out a section of wood wider than the threads at
the top of the screw to keep the screw from "jacking up" the board being
Well, that's just a blanket statement for which I have to call BS.
I've drivel thousands of holes using that same design and believe me,
every screw was permanent.
We develop different techniques for different materials we are using.
Softer woods don't need a "clearance hole" because the upper threads
will simply strip out the wood in the board being fastened. And in
hardwoods where you don't have a "clearance hole" I find it faster to
simply let the screws "jack up" the hardwood material being fastened
until enough threads have engaged in the material to which the hardwood
is being attached, then simply back out the screw until the board that
is jacked-up drops back down flush, then drive home the screw.
I will on occasion drill out a clearance hole, but your statement is
painting with too broad of a brush.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
On Monday, December 14, 2015 at 2:16:32 PM UTC-8, Electric Comet wrote:
Yep, I've got an Hitachi version of that, from maybe a decade back. It gets
lots of use.
I've got a microset countersink tool that came from an old Boeing Surplus bin,
that's extremely handy, too. Countersinking really greatly helps with traditional
woodscrews, but most available screws are odd bugle-head shapes now. :-(
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