I assembled a face frame with pocket screws and decided to take the easy
way out and pocket-screw the frame onto the plywood cabinet. This was
successful, except that the oak 1x2 split at one end. I took the
offending screw out and the wood went back together well enough that
it's hard to see, but I'd like to repair it so it won't break off later.
I was wondering if I could clamp the area, drill a hole up into the
split and inject some sort of glue. I see someone has tried this, but
Any ideas? If this is possible, advice on the type of glue and syringe
would be helpful.
By the way, in fits and starts, I've made some progress on the CD
I have had good luck with simply prying the split open a small bit and
pouring glue straight into the crack. Obviously you will need for the
crack to be facing up so that gravity will let it go where it will.
You can also use masking tape to keep glue off of any areas that you
don't want it to penetrate, like the end grain. Then clamp and wipe off
the squeeze out. I have never had a piece break off using this method.
Try thinning the glue a little and using a vacum to pull it into the
crack.. I would just get a few glue syringes from rockler, woodcraft or
Lee valley and inject it into the hole then screw it together while
using clamps to keep the crack closed.
The method I use, often, for such cases, is to tape the surface, if possibl
e, then wet any exposed surface, to keep the glue from adhering onto the su
rface. Squeeze/press the glue into the crack, as best as possible, and, if
I think I need more glue deeper into the crack, I use the air hose to blow
the glue down into the crack. This method works best for me in most cases
I never thought to use suction, on the backside, but that should work, if y
ou can access the backside. For me, the air hose seems quicker and more co
Comments about syringes and needles:
Syringes and needles aren't (generally) perscription items. They are over-
Your local pharmacy has TB syringes with 5/8", 21 gauge needles, sometimes
lower guage needles (larger needles) are available, separately, as well. Y
ou likely have to buy in bulk, 100 per box. Any size needle fits onto all
syringe tips, so syringe size doesn't matter. If the hole in the tip of th
e TB needle is too small, for easy flow of the glue, snip off the sharp tip
of the needle, then pry open the shaft hole.... the shaft end having been
smashed flat by the snipping.
A local farmer's co-op may have larger needles, & supplies, for service to
livestock owners. Many farmers do their own routine injections and such.
You don't have to suck the glue from the needle end, to get it into the cyl
inder. Remove the piston from the upper end and pour/squirt the glue into
the cylinder.... a cleaner procedure, than sucking from the needle end.
Maybe your physician might sell you a syringe and large needle, also.
Your local surgical supply house will likely not sell you, directly, those
sorts of items, unless you know someone who works there. If available, pur
chase a damaged box at a discount.... now outlawed, here, that's what roost
er-fighting folks did, buy damaged boxes for their injections.
Mix up some epoxy, tape off the surfaces where you don't want the
drive screw into wood to force open the crack, then pour in epoxy and
out screw to allow crack to close.
No clamps are req'd.
If unthickened epoxy can't be poured into crack without draining out
it can be filled, then thicken with micro-balloons and fill using a
depresser, putty knife, whatever.
BTDT many times.
No syringe needed.
1. Put the screw back so the split opens (or open it otherwise)
2. Put yellow glue in the split
3. Remove screw (or whatever manner you opened the split) so it goes back
4. Clamp it moderately
5. Wipe off any glue squeeze out
If you are going to use a screw in the hole again, make sure the hole is at
least as big as the screw shank.
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