Yes, I have heard of it and stocked it for a customer. The brand we stocked
was Liquid Gloves. Our business sold auto parts and body shop supplies to
GM dealers. The body shops bought the product. It works BUT, it has to be
reapplied every 2 to 4 hours. YMMV. Also, you had to almost work it as hard
to apply as to actually clean your hands. In other words it is very
important that you work it in under your finger nails, around your cuticles,
and in all the folds of your skin at you knuckles. If you miss a spot, you
get dirty. You also have to wash it off after usage to clean your hands,
although this was an easier task and it make you hands feel kinda weird.
With all that in mind, the brand you are considering may work better and be
a bit less trouble to apply. IIRC the brand that we stocked was 3M.
That said, I have done quite a bit of painting and have found that to remove
oil based stains and paints quickly I pour some thinner in my hands and work
that in a bit and then wash that off with Fast Orange hand cleaner. The
thinner cuts the paint or stain very fast and the Fast Orange removes the
thinner very fast. This is all with the understanding that you are not
afraid of getting thinner on your hands for 20 to 15 seconds.
I was looking at the stuff that Lee Valley sells in their catalogue ...
getting tired of wearing two pairs of disposables just to keep them from
getting torn/leaking and thought that might help.
What kind of disposables? I have found nitril to be much more durable than
latex. The only ones I have damaged was a pair I was pulling on for the 5th
time, and that is pretty reasonable for disposables.
I've got both vinyl and latex, unfortunately given to me in large quantities
with the best of intentions ... that's why I don't want to buy any more and
thought I might try out the lotion, maybe even under the gift gloves.
I've also got the usual pair or two of heavy duty chemical gloves, but they
are overkill for stain and paint jobs, particularly in this climate.
I think I last tried that liquid glove thing back around the time it
first came out---mid-60s? It was more trouble than a scrub brush for
the hands, in truth. I like Leon's suggestion, though I also use
nitrile gloves a lot, except with shellac. Padding shellac with nitrile
means the alcohol bites through the blue plastic, IME.
Check out the fingernail brushes that Lee valley sells. I think they're
still very low priced, exceptionally effective, and easier on chewed up
hands than any other brush I've ever tried. I don't know the price
right now because I bought a dozen about 8 or 10 months ago, and still
have a bunch left. And the memory is getting old, so I can only say I
think I paid about 5 bucks for the dozen. Plus shipping.
Getting in on this late.
Working with epoxy, I use a lot of disposable gloves, mostly latex.
Strictly a one shot use but at $4/box, NBD.
Many auto mechanics use the nitrile (blue) ones.
Higher cost, but they last longer which is of no value to me.
Also use what are known as "canners gloves".
Yellow in color, resuable, have a cuff that is about 3"-4" above the
wrist. Less than $75/pair.
That's _exactly_ what I am trying to get around, and that's why I've been
wearing two pair at once to try to avoid.
IIRC, your hands are even bigger than mine and I've got to literally stuff
mine into those one-size-fits-all disposables. I often have to go straight
from the shop into meetings with folks who still wear suits and culture
strings, and while I can pull off the shorts and t-shirt routine, stained
fingers just look dirty.
If you are trying to keep stain (either oil or water base)off your
fingers while applying it, try the "canners gloves" previously mentioned.
Thin enough to maintain a tactile feel, thick enough to protect, and
they don't react with solvents.
Hummmmm.. I have actually started to try to avoid staining and going with
the natural color when a customer is paying. It is hard however to do a
whole kitchen and use the expensive woods rather than stain.
On Thu, 24 Nov 2005 15:07:38 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Leon"
Find clients who KNOW that real wood varies in shade and LIKES the
slight variance in their finished cabinets. Point out how much less
lemmingesque it is. ;)
In nature's infinite book of secrecy a little I can read. -Shakespeare
http://diversify.com Website Application & Database Development
Wed, Nov 23, 2005, 8:40pm (EST+5) email@example.com (Leon)
<snip> The body shops bought the product. It works BUT,<snip>
This is all with the understanding that you are not afraid of getting
thinner on your hands for 20 to 15 seconds.
When I need such, I just use liquid dishwasing soap. Rub it on
until it "dries". Seems to work as well as commercial stuff, and loads
list expensive. Plus, you're not likely to be out of it just when you
My dad was a tool maker. Worked with a guy who used to dip his
hands in the cleaner they used, and clean his hands. Claimed it was
safe. Until all at once his hands were all withered. Dunno whatever
happened to him, had had to quit, because he couldn't work anymore.
Anothr reason I try to keep away from anything that needs thinner, etc.
When I do use them, I use kerosene for clean up.
Just pretend I'm not here. That's what I'm doing.
*That* had to have made for interesting breath. Not exactly minty-fresh,
If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough
On 23 Nov 2005, Swingman spake unto rec.woodworking:
I am on my third bottle, and it does indeed work as advertised. It goes on
like a moisturizer, you rub your hands together for a minute to get it to
dry, and then go about your business. While you still may need a touch of
turps or mineral spirits to get ALL the paint off your hands, it is very
effective at reducing the amount that sticks.
Another happy LV customer...
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