I buy deerskin and goatskin leather gloves from the arc-welding shops to
pull poison oak vines so I'm forced to wash the gloves after use.
Even though I buy XL (the largest size they have in the non-cowhide
gloves), once it's washed (even in just cold water with air drying), they
shrink so much, that I can barely fit them on my hands.
I actually doubt there is a solution - but - just in case, may I ask ...
Is there a way to un-shrink leather work gloves?
On Wed, 06 Apr 2011 23:58:14 +0200, Sjouke Burry wrote:
That, I think, is the best suggestion so far.
Of course, it's too late for this set of gloves - but in the future it
will be tried.
Of course, given these arc-welding gloves are mid-wrist in length (far
longer than your typical garden leather gloves), it will be a bear to get
shredded newspaper into or out of the finger holes.
Mel, I would consider getting some diameter of PEX type plastic
pipe. This stuff is firm but flexible. Get one that works for
your finger size (may require a larger size for the thumb). Just
to try it out, shove the pieces of pipe into the fingers when
sopping wet. This may not keep the fingers long enough, but
should sure maintain the finger diameters.
If the thought works out, you could develop a hand form mounted on
a board to stick the gloves on. This would allow hanging a weight
on the cuffs to prevent the fingers from shortening.
Keep the whole world singing . . .
Lordy. Go to HF, buy some of the gauntleted rubberized fabric gloves
rated for HazMat cleanup, and get on with your life. Six months after OP
passes away, or is too feeble to cut brush, that back 40 of his will be
impassable again anyway.
Most of us have enough PITA outdoor chores to suck up more than our
available time, without assigning ourselves Augean stables to clean like
that. Toxic plants are Ma Nature's way of saying 'humans keep out'.
An industrial supply house should have gloves more suitable to what
you are doing. There are plastic coated types with metal
reinforcements and many other unusual designs. Check McMaster and
Grainger for possibilities.
I buy cheap $0.67 cotton gloves and throw them out when I'm done using
them or they are dirty, not for poison ivy, but other stuff.
Poison ivy I just wash well with dishwashing detergent (the soap of
choice has to cut oil/grease) *within* an hour or two and never have a
Do a combination of the two and you may have a solution to getting
I offer this advice because I never had any good luck with unshrinking
leather. Or I suppose you could take the leather gloves to a dry cleaner?
Cotton gloves over single-use nitrile sounds like a good compromise for
pulling poisonous weeds. I wouldn't throw them out after every use, but
I would mark them with a sharpie and store them in a dedicated sealed
container between uses. Only open the container when wearing the fresh
nitrile, and seal the container before taking them off. That way, bare
skin never touches the contaminated gloves. Note for casual readers- you
never wash anything with poison or irritating plant oils in a washing
machine used for regular clothing. Plastic bucket and garden hose, while
wearing rubber gloves.
On Thu, 07 Apr 2011 23:09:19 -0400, Tony Miklos wrote:
I always wash my clothes right after working with this poison oak. The
clothes come out splotched with black oils from the poison oak. It looks
like I've been in a grease-gun fight. The gloves are stained black as if
the kids put markers all over them. That's all the poison oak oils after
they've oxidized in the wash.
This isn't little stuff. These vines are as thick as your wrist. Little
cotton gloves are NOT going to cut it. I was hoping the leather would
hold up. Gas welding gloves were nice and long but the cowhide was too
thick. The arc welding gloves fit and worked perfectly.
The main problem is they shrink. I like the idea of 'dry cleaning' them.
I wonder if I can buy dry-cleaning solvent at the hardware store.
What dry-cleaning solvent can I buy at the hardware store that will clean
leather gloves of urushiol?
On Fri, 08 Apr 2011 16:51:28 -0700, Jon Danniken wrote:
I would have to live in the Republik of Kalifornia!
There are no chlorocarbons on the shelves, I think.
Is there something else I can use (perhaps from the auto parts store or
the hardware store)?
Here, for example, is a picture of all my experiments (all of which
I've never heard of actually washing work gloves. If I were you I'd use
the cheap leather-palm ones and just throw them away when they wear out
-- and NEVER touch the outside with your fingers. My work gloves get
big holes in the fingers (repairable with duct tape, of course) long
before I'd consider washing them, but I'm not dealing with poison
I've got some nice goatskin gardening gloves, but they're too good to
use :-) I used to turn them inside out (like the rest of the dirtbags)
and use them for motorcycle gloves.
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