I love this idea but have no idea where to find such a truck. UHaul
and Ryder do not have these as standard equipment. The come-along
idea - where do I hook to on the saw?
Just loop some rope around the saw and hook into the ropes. Or if you are
into this kind of thing, you will have some web slings laying around you can
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 20:17:42 -0800 (PST), " email@example.com"
If you're in California, zilok.com rents 3/4 tom pickups with lift for
Check whether they are in your area:
Otherwise, see what a 16 foot moving van with lift costs - probably
On Mon, 22 Feb 2010 08:04:48 -0600, the infamous Swingman
Call any of the appliance outlets which haven't yet gone out of
business. They probably have a lift truck and a man hanging around
doing nothing and would love to go move a newfangled tablesaur for
some fine gent in their town.
Horrifyingly enough, I drove by the last local equipment rental place
last week and there was no equipment there, but a large For Rent sign
hung on the building. DRAT!
"Just think of the tragedy of teaching children not to doubt."
-- Clarence Darrow
We moved in '08 and you U-Haul idea is a good one. We moved several
shop items including my 470 pound Grizzly 1023s and several other
tools using one of U-Hauls enclosed trailers (12' x 5' I believe with
at least 5' of interior height). The trailer is built very close to
the ground, and has the waist-high tie-down rail, and it worked well.
I have a set of home-made 2x12 ramps with the metal add-on bottom &
tailgate ledge ends. My neighbor helped my wife and I roll the saw up
onto the trailer. On the other end, my wife, sister-in-law and I
easily, well fairly easily, got it off. A few thoughts:
1) If you are buying from Craig's List ask if the seller can help you
get it loaded. He is getting paid he should do more than stand and
watch. If he can come up with a neighbor, all the better.
2) If the saw is not on a mobile base you might want to consider
getting one. It will be a hassle getting the saw on the base but
should be do-able. Without a base it will be more difficult. A fall
back would be a few lengths of pvc pipe to use as rollers but that can
be tricky, especially unloading.
3) If on a mobile base it might want to high-center when you start the
slope onto the ramps. We actually had a little more trouble getting
it off of the trailer than on. (Might have something to do with the
25 year old helper on one end and a spry 69 year old helper on the
unload end:^} ).
4) Dis-assemble as much as you can. On my saw the fence alone is
about 30+ pounds. Take wrenches and remove the tables if needed. It
only takes a few moments and probably drops the weight by 50-60
pounds. You will likely take the fence rails off too. (We were able to
move mine, on the mobile base, with the table attached.
5) The come-alone previously mentioned might help control it on the
down slide (especially if you used pipe rollers)
Main advice. Don't get in a hurry. Look the situation over and be
careful and methodical. It is do-able.
Sonny must have posted just ahead of me. the PVC pipe works. We
moved a 800# gun safe and a 600# fireplace insert using the pipes.
Just tip the saw back and slide the first one under; then balance it
while rolling onto another. Then roll it onto a third and swap out
Just remember one thing.....
On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 13:08:58 -0800 (PST), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
The top comes off with 4 bolts and 4 more if you want to take the
extensions off first. You can easily move the base (with motor)
around strapped to a good 2 wheel dolly.
Getting it into the truck can get a little tricky but if you can get
the truck on a sloped drive or even over a curb and use some ramps you
should be able to roll it in. You might also want to pop the tailgate
off so you don't bend it or break a cable.
I will say that I've never asked my Wife to help me move one but I
have moved 3 of them always with just me and another guy.
The whole process is quite a bit easier if you can remove the motor
but it takes two people to get that motor out and if you haven't done
it before it's pretty easy to smash a finger. Motor removal on the
later models is a little easier since they aren't quite as large as
the old bullet style motors.
Thanks - not sure what to expect at the seller's address as to whether
I can get a low sloped roll into the truck. Good tip on the
tailgate. Doesn't sound like too many are making a concern about the
motor breaking the trunnions during the return trip.
A typical Unisaw weighs in at 380 lbs, which can be handled fairly
easy with hand carts. A furniture mover is also handy if you got
I assume you got a pair of decent ramps ???
(1) Remove any side tables.
(2) Being Very careful, tilt the saw over on it's side
and stand it up top down. Do NOT crush hand wheels
doing this step.
(3) Hand cart the saw up the ramps and place saw in truck
bed upside down.
(4) Tie down saw, and drive slowly home.
(5) Do the reverse when you get home.
Did I mention being careful ???
I'm looking at a Unisaw on CL. I have a Dodge Ram pickup that can
handle the load but I have no idea how Id get the thing into the bed
of the truck (just me & wife). The saw is not nearby and a bit of a
drive. I dont have access to a small trailer, although I guess I
could rent a U-Haul? Recommendations?
Not unusual for Unisaws to sustain broken trunions unless handled with kid
gloves. Lots of documentation concerning that problem. I personally would
absolutely take the motor out so that the trunion only has to supports it's
own weight should the saw shift or get bounced a bit. the motor is probably
close to 100# so that should help with the lifting.
One other option that hasn't been mentioned is to rent a towable engine
hoist. I'm not sure how easy it would be to attach to a unisaw but I used
one to move a large wood stove a few years back and it worked great (and
was pretty cheap -- under $20 to rent).
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