firstname.lastname@example.org (MSCHAEF.COM) wrote in
Assuming you're seeing the Freud SD208. I've used this one for 3+ years,
first on a Shopsmith (don't ask), and then on a Unisaw. It performs
acceptably for the tasks I give it. Enough that, with a standing offer to
use the neighbors SD508, I've never gone across the street after his.
Really fussy veneer plywood gets cut with an Oldham 80T crosscut blade, and
a lot of careful planning. And generally speaking, no dado joinery.
I've never used the Forrest set. Every other Forrest product I've used has
been top grade, however.
So, are you making $100 cuts? Or $300 cuts? And how many?
The SD208 is fine if you are doing a groove (with the grain) or
plywood. If you are doing a dado (crosscut), go to a SD308. Almost no
info on this very very nice dado, but you can get it on Amazon or at a
I ordered an SD 208 from a Buy It Now place on eBay for under 80 bucks
delivered. It got to my place the day after I left for work so I don't
get to play for a while. I was wondering however about the crosscut
tearout that is commonly mentioned about this blade. Would scoring the
outside marks with a razor knife prior to cutting help to eliminate
I haven't tried that so I can't definitively answer your question but I
assume it would at least help. For the money cuts, one way to do this is to
make the edge cuts with your finish table saw blade and plow out the
remainder of the material with the dado set. PITA? Time consuming?
Difficult? Yes, all of the above. But if you want the piece to look nice,
some time/effort is required.
Guess you've never seen the chip free dados made with an SD-508. There
is NO need to use another blade for the "money cuts". There's literally
ZERO chip out even in Melamine with a 508. 'Course that puppy is about
Chuck Hoffman wrote:
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