I have old oak flooring that's laid on a floor that's 3/4" off the level. I
want to lift the oak off,level the sub floor & relay the oak. Anyone know of
a product that I could pour & then nail thru to relay the floor?
Is the house or room 3/4" out because the foundation setttled? Is this
3/4" in 2 feet or in 40 feet? If it was settled foundation I might
look at jacking up the house. How old is the house or building? Any
new construction around the foundation? If it was out by that much
over 40 feet I might not worry about it. There are concrete based flow
leveling systems available but they would probably crack when you
tried to nail through.
It may be a slow process to remove old oak flooring without destroying
it. Maybe not as I have not tried to remove old oak flooring. It still
goes back to the questions of how big the area is you are trying to
level and why it is out of level.
The foundation has not settled. This is in the main hall about 4ft across &
only at one end. As you approach the front door it becomes fine again, 12ft
away. The joist in that area sagged, I tried jacking it,but didn't move it
much. I was afraid of cracking the joist. So I supported it from underneath.
If you are stating that one of the 14' long joists has sagged you
could do a few things. If it is not load bearing you could cut it and
sister in a new straight joist. Not the most fun task but if the goal
is to get a dip out I bet it is less work that tearing up the old
floor, leveling and trying to install a damaged old floor. All those
nails get in the way of flipping a new joist in. I replaced a few
joists at a friend's house after a fire. Termites had destroyed a few.
Even after the house was gutted from drywall and cabinets flipping a
new joist in was a pain. Actually we tore the old carboard joist out
and replaced it. If you have seen a termite eaten board they leave
nothing but air it seems.
So is this dip in the middle of the 4 foot hallway someplace or is it
by a wall where a load was put on a joist where a double or triple
joist should have been? Or was it just a joist that went a little wild
as it dried out?
I did engineered joists on my first floor so my hardwood would have an
even plane. So far after 10 years that system has worked out fine.
There are some "no shrink" grouts out there that I have used in the
concrete trade. I've set 50 ton concrete walls on a 2" pad placed on
a regular footing.
As far as nailing the oak down, we had simular situations.
We would drill a 1/4" inch hole and fill in with a 1/4" dowel, mark
the hole and then place the wood and nail into the dowel.
One trick is to keep the hole at a certain distance (off of the
previuos piece) so you dont have to "hunt for it.
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