Flip top bench stand

Not sure I recall whether I stole mine from Wood or not. I'll post a pix of mine again to a.b.p.w.

Fri, Oct 1, 2004, 5:47am (EDT+4) snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Bob) asks: I've seen pictures and searched this group for information about a flip top bench stand that was published in Wood magazine

Sears used to sell a 3 tool version. Don't know if they still do or not.

I know the archives has an article or two on similar. You check the archives? One, at least, was a two tool example, with an explanation how it was done, and photos. Simple enough. A pivot point, and catches. I think a couple of two tool units would be better than trying for a three tool unit. But, a three tool unit shouldn't be much harder to make.

Might want to consider puting your tools on a base, then setting the base in place, and clamping, or bolting it. A pay system is in the archives, to give an example. Tool Harbor comes to mind, but I don't know if that's right, or not. I've got one or two magazine articles showing similar plans, and think theres a free plan in the archives too.

I had enough of changing around, when I had my Shopsmith. A good tool, but a bit irritating changing back and forth. But, if I was really cramped for space, I'd go for another one. As is, I have to shuffle my stuff around sometimes, but everything is stand-alone now.

JOAT We will never have great leaders as long as we mistake education for intelligence, ambition for ability, and lack of transgression for integrity.

- Unknown

Thanks to everyone for the posts and email and pictures. I've got a good idea of what I need to do now.

Best regards, Bob

I built a flip top for my planer, with opposite side as work surface. Basic elements:

1) Top is 2 3/4' MDF cores, glued and screwed together. 2) Pivot is 3/4' round bar, set in dadoes cut at midpoint of each MDF pience prior to assembly. Bar protrudes from each side into top frame of cabinet, which also been drilled to accept bar. Bar is drilled and secured in MDF so it does not slip, but is unsecured in frame so it can spin. 3) Top is held stable by use of aluminum pieces, drilled on one end and screwed into MDF top. Other end has leather piece as pad and extends out from corner. These tabs can swivel so they catch the underside of the cabinet frame when unit is flipped down, or topside when the planer is flipped up. 4) Equipment is secured with high strength bolts and lock nuts, countersunk on opposite side of equipment. Essential you find the balancing point for the equipment, so that it stays stable while operating without a lot of dependence on the tabs. You could use better locking mechanism if needed, but tabs have worked great for me.

I have seen version where cabinet is open on front and back, so you can swing top either direction. Mine works great, would not have done anything else. Extremely easy to use and disappears when not in use.

Chris

Thanks for the detailed and clear explanation, Chris. I have a great deal of difficulty reading words and translating to an image. You did a nice job breaking it down into construction steps, allowing me to build up the picture in my mind. Your design sounds very "beefy". I like it.

Best regards, Bob