I've seen pictures and searched this group for information about a flip top
bench stand that was published in Wood magazine a while back. Wood does not
have reprints of this issue and I've been unable to cipher the heart of the
design by looking at shop pictures on websites.
Can someone give me some guidance as to what are the key elements of such a
stand (swivels, hinges, clasps, etc.). I can figure out the basic supporting
elements and table top. I want to build a single stand that has bench
planer on one side and work table/sharpening station on the other side.
Fri, Oct 1, 2004, 5:47am (EDT+4) email@example.com (Bob) asks:
I've seen pictures and searched this group for information about a flip
top bench stand that was published in Wood magazine <snip>
Sears used to sell a 3 tool version. Don't know if they still do
I know the archives has an article or two on similar. You check
the archives? One, at least, was a two tool example, with an
explanation how it was done, and photos. Simple enough. A pivot point,
and catches. I think a couple of two tool units would be better than
trying for a three tool unit. But, a three tool unit shouldn't be much
harder to make.
Might want to consider puting your tools on a base, then setting
the base in place, and clamping, or bolting it. A pay system is in the
archives, to give an example. Tool Harbor comes to mind, but I don't
know if that's right, or not. I've got one or two magazine articles
showing similar plans, and think theres a free plan in the archives too.
I had enough of changing around, when I had my Shopsmith. A good
tool, but a bit irritating changing back and forth. But, if I was really
cramped for space, I'd go for another one. As is, I have to shuffle my
stuff around sometimes, but everything is stand-alone now.
We will never have great leaders as long as we mistake education for
intelligence, ambition for ability, and lack of transgression for
I built a flip top for my planer, with opposite side as work surface. Basic
1) Top is 2 3/4' MDF cores, glued and screwed together.
2) Pivot is 3/4' round bar, set in dadoes cut at midpoint of each MDF pience
prior to assembly. Bar protrudes from each side into top frame of cabinet,
which also been drilled to accept bar. Bar is drilled and secured in MDF so
it does not slip, but is unsecured in frame so it can spin.
3) Top is held stable by use of aluminum pieces, drilled on one end and
screwed into MDF top. Other end has leather piece as pad and extends out
from corner. These tabs can swivel so they catch the underside of the
cabinet frame when unit is flipped down, or topside when the planer is
4) Equipment is secured with high strength bolts and lock nuts, countersunk
on opposite side of equipment. Essential you find the balancing point for
the equipment, so that it stays stable while operating without a lot of
dependence on the tabs. You could use better locking mechanism if needed,
but tabs have worked great for me.
I have seen version where cabinet is open on front and back, so you can
swing top either direction. Mine works great, would not have done anything
else. Extremely easy to use and disappears when not in use.
Thanks for the detailed and clear explanation, Chris. I have a great deal of
difficulty reading words and translating to an image. You did a nice job
breaking it down into construction steps, allowing me to build up the
picture in my mind. Your design sounds very "beefy". I like it.
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