Well, that's a tough spot for a break. BUT it is a fairly easy fix
since most guitars are designed to allow for replacement. Still a
luthier would be needed. There are adjustment issues that the average
woodworker wouldn't be capable of making for playablity.
The neck is generally made up of a hardwood with a slot for the
tensioning rod. On top of the neck is the fretboard covered with
Frets. It's usually made from ebony and its playing surface is
usually surfaced simular to a road with a slight rounding of the play
surface. All the frets are also level. There is also the top nut
(that piece that all the strings go across at the tunning end of the
guitar.) And another one at the bottom of the guitar. These are used
to establish the playing height of the guitar.
I would recommend getting the neck replaced because of the tension
that is on the neck applied by the strings.
That's an easy and fairly successful fix. Happens a lot.
To satisfy your curiosity...
Get a tech at your local guitar store or Guitar Center to fix it.
Shouldn't be too expensive.
Common break, weak spot from short grain. Leo Fender made
a BIG improvement by not cranking the peghead back.
Fix is glue the break then insert a spline to reinforce after
removing the fingerboard and peghead veneers using heat
to break the hide glue. Pare the spline flush and reinstall
the fingerboard and peghead head veneer, then repair
the finish. If you want a playable instrument -- sharp glue
joints along the edges of the fretboard are not kind to fingertips --
you'll pay a luthier the guitar's full value or more. Would be
cheaper to buy a new neck, bolt on, hopefully, though installing
a new dovetailed neck would still be easier than fixing a
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