Fence left or fence right?

[David]

what's wrong with that picture? Think about the strain of PULLING the board tightly against the fence for one thing. You can't even see the interface between the boards and the fence to insure an even cut. If you have the fence on the right like you are supposed to, you can be sure there's no gap between the board and the fence, PLUS you can easily PUSH the board into it's proper position flush against the fence more easily than you can PULL it. Besides, how on earth can you deal with wide stock like plywood, MDF, etc. You'll have to have "mutant" arms to reach the far side of the stock! :)

Sorry George, what you are suggesting is awkward and can easily result in improperly cut boards. Try the "normal" way; you might like it.

Dave

[David]

I meant "ensure"; I doubt there's an insurance policy for covering improperly ripped boards. :)

Dave

[Leon]

Or maybe you meant "assure". LOL

[David]

Nope. because there are no spectators. :) I only wanted to be "certain", I didn't need to provide confidence to others. Dave

[George E. Cawthon]

[Jeff Gorman]

"Mortimer Schnerd, RN"

Assuming that the board is exactly 10" wide, this procedure will produce a piece 7-7/8" (or less) wide, depending on the with of the saw kerf.

Prior to ripping, one needs to establish a straight edge that will reference against the fence. The workpiece will also need to have a straight, ie datum or 'face' edge at some stage in anything but rough work.

Hence the fence should be set to 8".

For more info on feeding a circular sawbech - Circular Sawbench Safety - Feeding a Workpiece - might be of some value.

Jeff G