Left or right tilt tablesaw?

I'm in the market for a new cabinet saw and was wondering if I should consider a left tilt or not. Seems like it would come in handy but I've never used one so I'm looking for input.

Bryan

Reply to
DamnYankee
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Yes

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

Reply to
Dave Jackson

...t> >>

For new purchase, it's mostly a religious question, not technical. One gets adjusted to what one has--being a PM66 owner of nearly 30 years I am, of course, of the LHT persuasion... :)

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

;~) The single most asked question in this group that I paste this rubber stamp answer to. Both saws will make all the same cuts. Some easier on the left tilt, some easier on the right tilt. Strictly personal preference. But if you need to be steered one way or the other, Advantages: Are you right handed? Get the left tilt.

  1. Commonly the Left tilt has the bevel wheel on the right side and is easily turned with your Right hand.
  2. Left tilt can rip a narrow bevel with out having to move the fence to the left side of the blade.
  3. Left tilt allows the blade arbor nut to be removed with your right hand.
  4. Left tilt allows your to remove the arbor nut and turn it in the direction that you would expect.
  5. With a Left tilt, when both edges of a board are beveled, the sharp point of the bevel is up on the fence when cutting the second bevel as opposed to the bottom of the fence where it might slip under.
  6. RIGHT tilt if you are left handed. The bevel wheel is commonly on the left side of the saw.
  7. RIGHT tilt if you "must" use the fence distance indicator when using a stacked dado blade set. The blades stack left, away from the fence. The indicator remains accurate. On the left tilt, the blades stack towards the fence and makes the indicator inaccurate. In this case use a tape measure to set the fence distance.
  8. RIGHT tilt allows you to remove the arbor nut with your left hand but the nut must be turned clockwise to loosen. Bassackwards to normalcy. If considering a cabinet saw, with wide 50" rip capacity. The Left tilt will most often afford you the most storage room under the right table extension. The RIGHT tilt has an access door in that location that will demand room to open. The left tilt allows you to have access to the motor and or the insides of the cabinet from the more open left side of the saw with out having to crawl under the right extension table. Very nice if you ever happen to drop the arbor nut inside the cabinet. If you are considering getting a replacement saw and considering going to the opposite tilt this time consider that the miter slots may not be the same distance from the blade when comparing a left to right tilt saw. This may or may not be of concern but something to consider.
Reply to
Leon

This is like arguing which is best, Ford or Chevy

Either one will work fine, but personally I like my left tilt saw

However, realize that typically with a left tilt saw, using a dado blade thows the fence calibration off, as you will be adding the extra cutters/blades/etc on the right side of the blade (ie, the same side the fence is typically on) and that will make the fence scale zero actaully read something like 3/4in

However, since the blade tilts to the left, doing bevel cuts will be much safer as you cannot trap the cutoff between the blade and fence like you can with a right tilt machine

John

Reply to
john

You know I think way too much is made of this decision. Both machines can make all the same cuts, both can do some things better than the other. It comes down to personal preference.

I pruchased a left tilt General 220. I like it. I'm right handed, and I rarely use the fence guage for mesurment. For me when I make the rare bevel cut I like that I can keep the fence on the 'normal' side and make the cut. It also has the advantage that the cabinet access is actually accessible in my shop, though this wasn't a selling feature.

I learned on a RHT machine, and now have a LHT. In normal day to day use I don't notice the difference. My suggestion is to get version that you are most comfortable with.

Reply to
Buster

Reply to
rickluce

==== Good answers all. Now for the $64 question: Does any manufacturer make a saw that can tilt either way?

Leif

Reply to
Leif Thorvaldson

Sat, Oct 15, 2005, 7:20am (EDT-3) snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (DamnYankee) did ask: I'm in the market for a new cabinet saw and was wondering if I should consider a left tilt or not. Seems like it would come in handy but I've never used one so I'm looking for input.

Get one of each, left tilt, right tilt. Try them both, sell the one you like least.

JOAT Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.

Reply to
J T

Choices choices choices... I resolved the toilet paper issue. Roll it from the top towards you. The peanut butter issue is leaning towards crunchy.

...back to our regular programming:

At one point, I had both a LT and a RT. When cutting strips with bevels on them, I either flipped the fence on the UniSaur or walked over to the SCM. Trapping stuff between the fence and the blade must be avoided at all costs. When you focus on what you're doing, either saw will be fine. IMHO, there are WAY more important things to look at when choosing a saw.

Good luck!

r
Reply to
Robatoy

Choices choices choices... I resolved the toilet paper issue. Roll it from the top towards you.

Wrong, think of a cat.

Reply to
Rick Samuel

No, but I once dated a girl that went both ways.

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski

LOL..I get the visual. Okay, I sit corrected.

Reply to
Robatoy

Actually, that's worse. Rolling from the front, my cat pulls down about 20' and plays with that. Rolling from the back, she keeps it rolling like a speed bag while shredding off little bits all over the place. What good is a roll of toilet paper when the centre of the roll has its centre torn out about an inch deep? She's an eight month old adult sized kitten. The solution is to close doors. Figured I'd won when I had her nails trimmed. Now she's learned that what she can't climb, she can jump onto. I'd say about every month she's added 6" of jumping confidence to her repertoire. Only effective deterrent is the water gun or the spray bottle and she's usually long gone as soon as I reach to grab it.

I'm doomed!

Reply to
Upscale

This answer is one of the reasons I asked the question. I never thought about the jigs. Thanks Dave!

Bryan

Reply to
DamnYankee

Great answer Leon. I appreciate the repost.

I know I could have done a search to find the answer but with all the "garbage" on the group lately, I thought it might be nice to get another woodworking related thread going. Thanks again.

Bryan

Reply to
DamnYankee

I've never used a LHT so I'm definately most comfortable with the RHT. I was considering the LHT because of the bevel cuts. I always avoide them on my current saw but it sure would be nice to be able to use the table saw for those cuts. I guess I'll just have to go to the Grizzly show room in Muncy PA (about an hour away) and compare them side by side. :-)

Thanks!

Bryan

Reply to
DamnYankee

But if you don't yet have a TS, I'd assume you don't have a supply of jigs ready made? :)

The only commercial one I'm aware of that really makes a difference is the old, (not the $100 one, the nearly $300 one) Delta tenoning jig that won't clear a left tilt blade.

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

Thanks Don. It sounds like the only real drawbacks so far are using dado blades and jigs for the RH may not work on the LH. I don't have that many jigs and measuring for the dado won't be that big of a problem. Actually, the dado blade gives me a different problem now on my current saw anyways. I have a contractor saw and the blade depth/height doesn't lock. When using a dado blade, the weight of the blade causes it to drop so I'm always "working" to keep the height consistent. I'll be upgrading to a cabinet saw so this won't be an issue.

Bryan

Reply to
DamnYankee

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