I'm in the market for a new TS also. If you google for left vs. right tilt
you'll find more info than you'll ever need to make the decision. My
current is a right tilt. I see no real reason to switch to left as it
apppears the miter slots aren't the same distance from the blade on a left
tilt, therefore my jigs won't work on the different tilt. Good luck, --dave
But if you don't yet have a TS, I'd assume you don't have a supply of
jigs ready made? :)
The only commercial one I'm aware of that really makes a difference is
the old, <heavy, commercial> (not the $100 one, the nearly $300 one)
Delta tenoning jig that won't clear a left tilt blade.
;~) The single most asked question in this group that I paste this rubber
stamp answer to.
Both saws will make all the same cuts. Some easier on the left tilt, some
easier on the right tilt. Strictly personal preference. But if you need to
be steered one way or the other,
Are you right handed?
Get the left tilt.
1. Commonly the Left tilt has the bevel wheel on the right side and is
easily turned with your Right hand.
2. Left tilt can rip a narrow bevel with out having to move the fence to the
left side of the blade.
3. Left tilt allows the blade arbor nut to be removed with your right hand.
4. Left tilt allows your to remove the arbor nut and turn it in the
direction that you would expect.
5. With a Left tilt, when both edges of a board are beveled, the sharp point
bevel is up on the fence when cutting the second bevel as opposed to the
bottom of the fence where it might slip under.
6. RIGHT tilt if you are left handed. The bevel wheel is commonly on the
left side of the saw.
7. RIGHT tilt if you "must" use the fence distance indicator when using a
stacked dado blade set. The blades stack left, away from the fence. The
indicator remains accurate. On the left tilt, the blades stack towards the
fence and makes the indicator inaccurate. In this case use a tape measure to
set the fence distance.
8. RIGHT tilt allows you to remove the arbor nut with your left hand but the
nut must be turned clockwise to loosen. Bassackwards to normalcy.
If considering a cabinet saw, with wide 50" rip capacity.
The Left tilt will most often afford you the most storage room under the
right table extension. The RIGHT tilt has an access door in that location
that will demand room to open. The left tilt allows you to have access to
the motor and or the insides of the cabinet from the more open left side of
the saw with out having to crawl under the right extension table. Very nice
if you ever happen to drop the arbor nut inside the cabinet. If you are
considering getting a replacement saw and considering going to the opposite
tilt this time consider that the miter slots may not be the same distance
from the blade when comparing a left to right tilt saw. This may or may not
be of concern but something to consider.
Great answer Leon. I appreciate the repost.
I know I could have done a search to find the answer but with all the
"garbage" on the group lately, I thought it might be nice to get
another woodworking related thread going. Thanks again.
This is like arguing which is best, Ford or Chevy
Either one will work fine, but personally I like my left tilt saw
However, realize that typically with a left tilt saw, using a dado
blade thows the fence calibration off, as you will be adding the extra
cutters/blades/etc on the right side of the blade (ie, the same side
the fence is typically on) and that will make the fence scale zero
actaully read something like 3/4in
However, since the blade tilts to the left, doing bevel cuts will be
much safer as you cannot trap the cutoff between the blade and fence
like you can with a right tilt machine
Maybe the cold medicine is dulling my brain (likely) but if a Right
Tilt saw had the extension table on the left side, wouldn't bevels be
safe to cut?
Then the stacking dado thing, would that not work out okay also?
Whiskey Echo Sierra Sierra AT Alpha Charlie Echo Golf Romeo Oscar Paul dot
You know I think way too much is made of this decision. Both machines can
make all the same cuts, both can do some things better than the other. It
comes down to personal preference.
I pruchased a left tilt General 220. I like it. I'm right handed, and I
rarely use the fence guage for mesurment. For me when I make the rare bevel
cut I like that I can keep the fence on the 'normal' side and make the cut.
It also has the advantage that the cabinet access is actually accessible in
my shop, though this wasn't a selling feature.
I learned on a RHT machine, and now have a LHT. In normal day to day use I
don't notice the difference. My suggestion is to get version that you are
most comfortable with.
I've never used a LHT so I'm definately most comfortable with the RHT.
I was considering the LHT because of the bevel cuts. I always avoide
them on my current saw but it sure would be nice to be able to use the
table saw for those cuts. I guess I'll just have to go to the Grizzly
show room in Muncy PA (about an hour away) and compare them side by
I did not rip a bevel on the RHT saw, but have on the LHT. Easy. Just like
a 90 cut.
It seems to me if you moved the fence to the other side of the saw blade,
you'd now need to push through with your left hand and put pressure into the
fence with your right. Of course you could always use a featherboard...
Then again, in the last year, I can count on one hand the number of beveled
rip cuts I've made on my table saw.
Have fun at the Grizzly show room!
Well, I have a right tilt mechanism on my Unisaw. I would get a left
tilt if I did it again. Why? The fence is on the right side and when
you want to do a bevel or an edge chamfer you have to switch sides or
take a chance on trapping your work piece. Not a big deal unless you
have a large board (greater than 10" wide) then your left table isn't
wide enough. Further more, if you have the unifence you have to remove
the fence from the slider, switch to the other side then make sure that
everything is square and calibrated to the saw blade. Having both a
left and right tilt table, I can tell you the left tilt was a better
choice. If you are left handed I guess you could put the extension
table on the left side and it would work fine, exept for the fact that
the angle tilt is under your extension table. I'm not sure what
everyone else is using there tilt for, but bevels and chamfers are the
majority of my cuts. Why did I buy the right tilt? Because Delta was
switching to the X series and the last of the previous addition was on
sale for 1399.00, it happened to be a right tilt.
Hope this helps,
Thanks Don. It sounds like the only real drawbacks so far are using
dado blades and jigs for the RH may not work on the LH. I don't have
that many jigs and measuring for the dado won't be that big of a
problem. Actually, the dado blade gives me a different problem now on
my current saw anyways. I have a contractor saw and the blade
depth/height doesn't lock. When using a dado blade, the weight of the
blade causes it to drop so I'm always "working" to keep the height
consistent. I'll be upgrading to a cabinet saw so this won't be an
Sat, Oct 15, 2005, 7:20am (EDT-3) firstname.lastname@example.org (DamnYankee)
I'm in the market for a new cabinet saw and was wondering if I should
consider a left tilt or not. Seems like it would come in handy but I've
never used one so I'm looking for input.
Get one of each, left tilt, right tilt. Try them both, sell the
one you like least.
Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person
who doesn't get it.
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