Rockwell 4692 Porta Planer
a.. Metal storage/carrying case
b.. Rockwell 4692 Porta Plane with owner's manual
c.. Sharpening attachment and ancillary items with user manual
I'm not crazy about supporting anything about advertising,
especially ebay stuff, but the tool is an excellent tool owned by
about every wood door hanger in the country. Precision in the
hands of an experienced craftsman.
(top posted for your convenience)
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
I like that. I'm going to implement that in my postings. It perfectly
illustrates why top posting so often makes sense. Ought to really
drive the netKops nuts. Of course if the netwits would learn to edit,
there wouldn't be any debate.
planing a sticking door is often a mistake. before you get out the
plane, make sure that the hinges are tight and set right and that the
jamb is square. if it still sticks, mark out where and how much and
take the door down and pull all of the hardware. generally you'll be
planing the hinge side. set the plane for a light cut and sneak up on
make sure that you have a good grasp of the door geometry, including
assuming that the building hasn't settled, warping the frame. if that
has happened, planing the door might be your only option. but it might
not, too. if the casing is removeable, check to see if the jamb can be
adjusted. but first check the jamb for plumb and level- if the wall is
sound, don't mess with the jamb.
the lockset is the hardest thing on a door to move. if you plane the
strike edge, you'll have to reset the lockset.
sticking doors are usually caused by sagging on the hinges. sometimes
the screws have worked loose, sometimes it's from wear on the hinge
itself- is it a high traffic door, old and heavy? sometimes on a frame
and panel door the rail and stile jointery loosens and the door sags
open the door to about 90 degrees and stand at the strike edge with
your toes on either side of the edge of it. grab one knob in each hand
and apply lift. if the door is sagging on the hinges you'll see
movement and whether it's the door leaf, the jamb leaf or both that
with the door closed, slip a business card in the gap and slide it all
of the way around the door. this will tell you exactly where it's
there are a lot of places where a door hang can go bad, and usually
you'll run into a combination of several.
probably you shouldn't be planing the door. but if what the door needs
is to be a fraction narrower but parallel, that's where you'd do it.
the pin can wear but so can the knuckle.
the card will also tell you where the gap is too big, if you wiggle it
a bit as it goes. finding the spots where the door is pulling away
from the jamb can be the clue you need.
think about the effect of gravity on the door. generally it will be
trying to rotate around the hinges, so it will try to bind at the
floor on the hinge side and at the top at the strike side. then think
about how to move the door back up into place. taking wood off is
rarely the right thing to do.
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