I'm making a cutting board (Wood Magazine plans) and it consists of 7 strips
of wood glued together, then cut and glued up as 24 pieces so the end grain
is on the cutting surface. The glue up was not as perfect as I'd like. I
cleaned up one side with a belt sander. The ideal took would be a drum
sander and it would be perfect in a few passes.
I got to thinking that I could save a lot of time with a couple of passes
through the planer, but . . . . . I figure I'd probably get a lot of tearout
and possibly even ruin the planer blades.
My plan is to make five of the cutting boards for Christmas gift. The glue
up has two strips of walnut, two cherry, three maple
Could you hot melt a couple of rails onto the glued up panel that
stand maybe a quarter inch proud and then run that over the dado blade
with real light passes on the ts until it was leveled out enough to
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
And here i thought I invented that cutting board concept a couple years ago!
I planed mine. It works, but plan on losing a good inch to tear out. The
planer blades will tear hunks off the trailing edge. Didn't do any harm to
the planer though.
It is "interesting", but there is a reason people don't make them that
I built a couple of those and posted the pictures. If you run them through
the planer you will get terrible tear out on the trailing edge.
I also plan on making more. I think this time however if I want to build 2,
I will double the thickness of the cross cuts so that the cutting board will
be twice as thick. If I want 3 I will triple the length of the cross cut
sections and make it 3 times thicker.
Then trim slabs off on the Band Saw for each cutting board. Less glue up
time and less sanding.
The carry bars and a chamfered edge will help, but the real tailed answer is
a drum sander or an overhead rig like a Saf-T-Planer or router sled and
I've got a low-angle Jack, and then there's the plane designed for the
purpose, the "block" plane. Takes less time than you think.
I remember seeing a setup that used two rails attached to the sides of
the piece, and a really wide sub base for a router that would span the
rails. Using a flat bottom cutter, you just move the thing all over the
surface of the board until you've hit all of it.
I know that I have a magazine at home that has detailed info on this -
it's either Wood or Workbench - I'll try to find it this evening.
Sounds like something I created to flatten/smooth one face of a board.
It's just a piece of plywood that's about 10" wide with two rails about
1.25" high screwed on the outside edges of the plywood. I place the wood in
between these rails and use a couple of screws to hold it place. I took
another piece of plywood, traced the bottom of the router onto this piece of
plywood, routed out about 0.25" so the router would fit, put a couple of
stops on the bottom, put a flat bottom cutting bit in the router and
flattened a board.
I made a fairly large table top this way. To solve the tearout
problem, I screwed sacrificial strip of wood on the trailing edge of
the glued up assembly. Sharp cutters help, too.
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
Repeating, if you chamfer the edge, there's nothing for the knives to catch
on to and tear away. You're probably going to round it afterward anyway to
avoid the same. Put your sacrificial boards alongside the piece,
perpendicular to the knives to keep it from tipping into the blades when it
transitions from infeed roller or into the outfeed. Standard snipe
1. make sure the tables are aligned and the blades are SHARP.
2. set cutting depth very fine, maybe 1/2 mm or less
3. do a short cut on the arse end first (um, the trailing end, sorry)
then turn the piece around and run it over the planer
- you should not get any tearout at all.
I've cleaned up frame_and_panel cabinet doors and sides this way and if you're
careful it works just fine, but I ran into serious trouble when one of the
joiner tables got out of whack due to a brass bush slipping in an aluminium
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