edge straightening jig

The longer your jig, the better the results.

I just secure an appropriate length of anything with a straight edge to the top of my wavy edged board with double sided tape or hot glue. Works great for me and I have no jig to build, store, or wish was longer/shorter/wider/narrower.

Art

"eganders" wrote ... [snip]

I guess I don't fully understand. I have a few questions.

1. Will this jig have something on the bottom to lay into the slot in the table saw top? If not then I guess you just ride this against the fence. So what is better than just ripping the lumber against the fence and no jig?

1. If it does have soemthing to lay in the slot, I guess it is set to a fixed width from the balde and this jig will only cut one width of material. If so, make sure to make the jig base wider than needed and cut it on the tablesaw so the supported actual board you want to cut has some support underneath as a zero clearance to keep from blow out on the bottom. The outlying cutoff will be unsupported and after a few feet it will start to sag down and if it is very wide will possibly cause some pinch on the balde. Watch out of kick back then.

I guess i am just an old hack but I rip 8ft lumber all the time. I can usually get it stra> I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge can

Your jig idea looks fine. Although it limits you to ripping boards that are less than 4" wide. I'm assuming you do not have a jointer. If you need to put a straight edge on a wider board your plan will work fine up to 6". After that, you may have to add support under the board (dbl stick tape). You may also wish to add additional tracks for the toggle clamps for additional width capacity.

Dave

Obviously this jig is for lumber that does NOT already have at least one straight edge.

In addition to building it long, forget the slot for the toggle clamps. Make the jig wider and screw the clamps down to the location that they work best for different width boards.

I have an old aluminum straight-edge a little over 8 ft. long.It comes apart in the middle, so if I need a short rip I only use half. I drilled some small holes in the guide and just screw it to the board with small screws, with the edge overhanging the board to serve as a straight guide against the fence.I then have a straight edge to saw the board to width and straighten the other edge.Crude, but works for me..on any with up to the limits of your saw.

| I am going to build a jig to hold a board so that a straight edge | can be put on one edge of the board by passing the board clamped to | the jig across a tablesaw. Here is the approach I plan to use: | |

You can follow the link in my sig to see the jig I built. I think mine is longer than necessary, since I can always use a longer straight board against my saw's fence to guide the jig.

I don't think your track for clamps will be useful. So long as the clamps hold your workpiece firmly, they can be fairly close together. I haven't regretted just screwing them to the jig.

-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA

I do exactly the same thing, it's quick and gets the job done with no jig to hang up. It will get you close enough to straight that your jointer can do the rest.

I like the handle you have, but I wonder if I should also put on a second handle to help me keep it to the fence. I'll report back after I have had some experience as to how I like it. Here is what it looks like: