economics of wipe on poly

[Sam the Cat]

anybody got an idea of the fomula for the minwax wipe on poly -- I understand, in general that it is "regular" poly mixed with some kind of thinner -- at ~$13QT vice ~8Qt for the full strength stuff, seems it might be time for some homebrew.

I expect the usual answer will be to mix some up and see what works best for me -- kinda hoping someone has already done that and has some experience to share.

Speaking of thinners -- any insight on whether to use -- turpintine, paint thinner or mineral spirits ? Checked the back of the cans -- and I think I know what turpintine is -- but the paint thinner ~$2QT and mineral spirits ~3QT has me confused. Both claim to have petroleum distillates and one is photo reactive, the other not. Both claim to be useful as thinners -- the brand at lowe's claimed paint thinner as the "most used" to thin oil based finished while mineral spirits was "often used"

Cheers

[Mike S.]

For the projects I use Minwax poly on I but the regular poly and mix it about 25% with mineral spirits. Takes a few more coats but no drips, runs or brush marks. Also doesn't have that plastic look that the thicker poly leaves.

[George]

You can use faster solvents like naphtha, too. Wouldn't go beyond 30% in thinning, though. If you look at the ratio of solids to solvent on each can, you'll get a pretty good idea of what you want.

[nospambob]

[Bill Wallace]

I go 50/50 with the high resin Minwax poly and Mineral Spirits. It takes forever to build up the finish but it is fool proof.

I did a mahogany ply and hard edge table top for a secratery desk with spindly little Hepplewith legs that my two teen daughters use as their computer table. Two years of extreme abuse and I can still buff it with a little wax and it looks like Ben Franklin should be sitting at the thing writting something much wittier than this.

BW