I have a Penn State DC1-B Dc with 5 micron bags. I need to make a 22 foot run with about a 4 foot drop at each end. Should I use 5" or 4" duct for this? Thanks for any help you can give.
-- Bill Rittner R & B ENTERPRISES Manchester, CT
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I would hazard a guess that it has insufficient air flow to keep material in suspension with 5" or larger pipe. It's a 1 HP job? Advertised air flows are generally overinflated.
Have you inquired from the vendor?
There is a really good site with formulas for computing this sort of thing, but I can't remember the address.
Here is another with a good overview, but it is rather general:
A work buddy of mine is a heating / air conditioning mechanic and i won't see him til monday... he knows all about duct work... anyway, a
90 degree bend in duct work is equal to 22 feet of straight run. Resistance, in other words.Because you've got a long run with 2 bends I'd opt for a 5 in duct, at least. You might do a search for CFM... Cubic Feet per Minute... get yourself some formula's and work out a system that will do the job intended. It would seem to me that a micron filter will clog very quickly and render itself inefficient quickly because fine sawdust will just embed itself in that kind of filter.
The larger the duct work the slower the velocity for the same fan / vacume output. ( CFM rating )
I hope some of this helps.
Excellent site and information.
Greg G.
On Thu 25 Dec 2003 06:10:35a, "William Prisavage" wrote in news:%sAGb.8609$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net:
huge 220V monster pump should have no less than 5 inch diameter and no bends greater than 45 degrees at a time.
Which brings me to MY question: what do you guys use for five-inch duct? I can find 5'' spiral ductwork but that stuff is so expensive. I'll use it if I have to but ain't there any PVC or anything like that out there in five- inch sizes?
Dan
5" heating duct. Smooth inside, metal for no static, and while not as cheap as 4" PVC, cheaper than other alternatives. I have never seen it at the BORG, however. Comes stacked sort-of flat, you roll it up and snap it together yourself. I don't know if I would use spiral, unless it was very smooth on the inside. FWIW,
Greg G.
The local Home Depot, here in Manchester, CT, has it.
-- Bill Rittner R & B ENTERPRISES Manchester, CT
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On Thu 25 Dec 2003 10:37:10a, Greg G. wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Okay, so I should be able to find it at a place that sells heating supplies. I think there's a fair amount of those around here. Thanks. Haven't done much local research yet. Just bought the DC and won't even be putting it together for a day or two.
What I was thinking of was from a dedicated DC supplies seller, so it's probably got good sucking characteristics :-) But it has to be shipped and it's two or three times the cost of 5'' heating duct according to the few minutes of googling I just did, so I won't be checking it any further. :-)
Thanks, Greg.
Dan
In article , snipped-for-privacy@charter.net says... ... snip
Call around to heating / air conditioning places. I found a place in Tucson that manufactures 5" duct, including the spiral pipe. Price was on the order of $12 / 10 foot length for the pipe and $11 to $16 for elbows; one cross (5 5 5-5) was $25. Got my blast gates from Penn State. I'm sure most larger cities (wouldn't call Tucson a major city) have similar places.
The metal spiral pipe I bought is smooth on the inside -- the spiral is the mechanism by which the pipe is closed, the interior has a gore liner that makes it smooth.
On Thu 25 Dec 2003 01:02:26p, Mark & Juanita wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.teranews.com:
Well thank you very much, folks. This was very helpful.
I'm in Wisconsin, near Madison, so finding a heating supplier probably won't be much of a trick. :-) I'll get on it right soon.
Dan
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