Dust Collector outside?

Hey all,

Just wanted to bounce this off you. I just got a Dust Collector for my garage shop. Unfortunately the only place in the garage to fit it is on the opposite side from where most of my tools are. So i started thinking I could build a small bump out on the side of my garage to house my DC. then i could just punch through the wall and shorten my runs. I would also quiet down the shop some.

My only question is, would it be better to then just vent the bump out to the outside, or put a filtered return back into the garage? Seems like the DC probably wouldn't suck that much air out of the garage so it would be a moot point.

danh

Reply to
danh
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Hopefully the DC is sucking boatloads of air ( > 600 CFM). I'd say have a filtered return to the garage.

This is discussed somewhere on this site.

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put DCs in another room and couldn't open the door while the DC was running because of the pressure difference. Putting a filter in the door was the solution, IIRC.

-- Mark

Reply to
Mark Jerde

Someday, it'll all be over....

Reply to
Tom

Your DC would not remove much air... Lets think about that! Typical two car garage, say 24 x 30 feet, 8 foot ceiling. Just a tad over

8,000 cubic feet of air inside. 1200 CFM dust collector. 8000cuft/1200 cfm = 6.67 minutes to change ALL the air in the shop. Not a problem unless you plan on heating or air conditioning the shop! Greg
Reply to
Greg O

If venting to the outside it will also suck out all your heat.

Reply to
<redd103

Reply to
Gerald Ross

I agree that it depends on where you live. Maybe you can make it work both ways so on those nice days when you're not heating or cooling, you can filter it to the outside.

Reply to
Larry Bud

I've been sitting on the side lines following this thread. I thought I would offer the following information to help determine the hourly cost to heat the air exhausted by a dust collector.

Assumptions:

-Dust collector will exhaust approximately 1500 CFM (Based on 2 hp Grizzly spec.)

-Outdoor air temperature is 10 degrees F, indoor air temperature is 70 degrees F.

-However the air is being replaced, i.e., by leakage in structure, open window, etc. it will be heated to 70 dgrees by some heating device.

-The average efficiency of a gas fired furnace is 80%

-A direct resistance electric furnace or electric baseboard is 100% efficent.

-One CCF of gas contains 100,000 Btu's and cost $.70 (approximately)

-One kWh of electricity contains 3,412 Btu's and cost $.09 (approximately)

The formula to calculate the heat required to raise air temperature is: Btuh (Btu's/hour) = CFM x (indoor temp - outdoor temp) X 1.08 Therefore: 1500 cfm X (70 - 10) X 1.08 = 97,200 Btuh (The heat required to raise 1,500 cfm of makeup air (10 degree outdoor air) to 70 degrees) (The 1.08 constant contains the conversion factors to convert CFM into Btu's per hour.)

If an 80% efficient gas appliance is used, 97,200 Btuh / (100,000 Btu/CCF X (80%/100)) = 121,500 Btu of gas will be burned to produce 97,200 btu of heat. 121,500 Btu / 100,000 = 1.21 CCF X $.70/CCF = $.847 $.847 is the hourly cost to replace the heat exhausted from one hour of operation.

If an 100% efficent electric appliance is used. 97,200 Btuh / 3,412 btu/kWh = 28.48 kWh 28.48 kWh X $.09/kWh = $2.56 $2.56 is the hourly cost to replace the heat exhausted from one hour of operation.

Hope this helps

Reply to
Nemo

Helps me. This summer I plan to do something like that by putting the DC into another shed off the garage. I'll put a filtered return vent hole in the wall to get some of the heat back. Ed

Reply to
Edwin Pawlowski
[...]

Do you get a big buyer price reduction? 25 (EURO)cents seems a much more likely number...

Reply to
Juergen Hannappel

Or as was mentioned in the archives: If you use fossil fuels for your water heater or furnace (I have natural gas in my garage), you would end up pulling the exhaust fumes into the garage because of the negative pressure. Not a good idea, so filtering it back into the garage in that scenario would be a must.

Mike

Reply to
Mike in Idaho

Juergen Hannappel asks:

I don't think so. I think we're paying more than that in Bedford, VA...with fuel factors and such, it is 14 cents per KWH, according to the most recent bill.Some wide variations around the U.S., though, as you can see.

Charlie Self "Take care of the luxuries and the necessities will take care of themselves." Dorothy Parker

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Reply to
Charlie Self

My last electric bill for Standard Residential service (200A) was US $61.80 for

898 kwh or $0.0688/kwh. Hard to say how the power is being produced, could be fossil fuel, nuclear, or Niagra Falls (hydro obviously). I live in NE Ohio. Other discussions have indicated that US$0.085/kwh is about average for the US and Canada.

ARM

Reply to
Alan McClure

On 15 Jan 2004 16:46:32 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@aol.comnotforme (Charlie Self) scribbled:

Canada is even cheaper. Here in the Yukon, in one of the highest priced areas in Canada (Only the NWT, Nunavut, and parts of Alberta are higher), the basic residential rate is 10.5 Canadian cents per kW-h. Quebec, Manitoba and BC are about 6 cents per kW-h, IIRC.

Luigi Note the new email address. Please adjust your krillfiles (tmAD) accordingly Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address

Reply to
Luigi Zanasi

Reply to
Wilson Lamb

Reply to
Wilson Lamb

How much of your energy cost is taxes? How easy is it for energy providers to build powerplants?

Reply to
Mark & Juanita

I agree with your numbers, but don't forget to add heat loss of the building to start with! If it takes 50,000 BTU just to heat your building you will need to add this to the numbers. Now if you do not have a large enough furnace to over come the heat loss, its gonna be cold in your shop! Period! Now all of a sudden you will need a 170,000 BTU gas furnace, or 150,000 BTU electric to maintain the temps in the building. I doubt few here have that large of heat source in their shop! You mention the cost to replace the heated air removed by the dust collector, sure it is not much, but if the furnace is not large enough, will not keep up with the heat loss, and you will be cold. You probably can get by with short bursts of use from your dust collector, but with long usage you better wear your thermal underwear! This is all easy to test. Just stick your dust collector out the door with a hose to the inside, and run it for a while, then decide which way you want to go! Greg

Reply to
Greg O

If you put in a filtered return, that is a differant story, no heat loss, no problem! Make is so you can block the return in the summer and just let it blow outside, it will move some air through the shop if you don't have AC! Greg

Reply to
Greg O

Agreed. If you plan on putting the DC outside in the winter with gas or oil heat, you need to leave a window or door open for makeup air for the DC. Greg

Reply to
Greg O

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