I highly suspect that he is using a milling machine and not a drill
press. A milling machine is designed for a side load, the typical DP is
not. It would work for a while but the bearings would likely wear out
sooner than later.
On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 18:27:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
Yes, he is using a vertical milling machine, most likely some kind of
Bridgeport. You can see the standard mill table, which he is cranking
back and forth.
On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 19:46:29 -0500, Joe Gwinn email@example.com
You are of course correct and I am not very observant. Certainly a
good way to do it if you have a real milling machine, but a bit
overkill if you're buying one for the purpose.
In addition to what the others have said, one caution - doing this with
a drill press (I've done it) tends to cause the quill to fall out, which
not only ruins whatever you're working on, but might injure you as well.
Yeah, a mill makes a good dado, I've made some of my jigs that way (it can do a really accurate
depth, and right angle, to make a clamp-able right angle bracket). For a stopped dado, either
a plunge router on a large workpiece, or on a router table you just drop the workpiece
with either a pilot hole, or find a router bit that end-cuts. Or, just mess with
sliding it back-and-forth as it slowly gets to full depth.
If you borrow someone's mill, be sure to clean off ALL the sawdust; it does odd and unlikely
things (corrode metal, attract moisture, clog oil passages).
On Wed, 18 Nov 2020 21:29:37 -0500, J. Clarke
The standard way to diagnose the problem is to smear a very thin layer
of HiSpot Blue (or equivalent) onto the morse taper of a new and clean
drill bit, and then install it with some wiggling, remove it, and look
into the female socket to see where the HiSpot Blue transferred from
drill shank to socket walls.
You want the little tube, not the big can with brush. The difference
is that the little tube contains an intensly blue grease that never
dries, while the big can contains what amounts to magic marker ink.
The grease is used for detecting contact while fitting, in much the
same manner as the traditional use of candle flame smoke when fitting
a wooden axe handle to an axe head: smoke the axe head opening, insert
wood into smoked opening, remove, observe where smoke has transferred
to wook, scrape the smoked wood away; repeat until wood is well bedded
in the opening.
The marker ink (layout fluid) is painted onto a piece of metal so
scriber likes will show clearly, the marks being used to direct where
Some of the ads call the grease a layout fluid, which is incorrect.
Be aware that this stuff will make a big mess, so have lots of paper
The biggest difference between a mill and a router is precision and rpm.
If a mill gets the job done faster and does a good job maybe you
should own one. LOL. That being said there is this thing called a
"bridge mill" that is made in droves for wood working with a wood router
as a spindle. Most people popularly call it a CNC router.
I have a Rockwell/Delta 11-280 drill press. The manual discusses its
use as a router and a shaper. In fact the manual displays a shaper
cutter kit. I haven't used it as either a router or a shaper. But I have
used it as a drum sander.
On Fri, 20 Nov 2020 12:33:18 -0600, shiggins firstname.lastname@example.org
This isn't a good idea. As has been discussed in this thread
(recently at least), sanding/routing/shaping will put a side load on
the bearings. Drill presses aren't designed to handle force
perpendicular to the bit. This is just asking for terrible runout
While a lot of Rockell equipment was pretty good, this unit is at the
lower end of the food chain. I had the same unit, got it as a sales
reward in 1979.
Yes you can do many things as you have pointed out. But should you.
Have you seen the Dremel plunger attachment to turn it into a plunge
router? Think that is a good idea?
When the 11-280 and similar designs were for sale back in the 60's, most
users were hobbyists that were pinching pennies. There weren't many
routers or shapers in the homeshop. Many users were still making trim
with specialized hand planes. I obtained my 11-280 from one of those
guys when his arthritis got the best of him. He made sure I knew how to
repair the spindle and quill before I took it home. There were all sorts
of attachments for virtually all stationary equipment - and some really
scary shit for handheld tools. If they looked like they wouldn't charge
the price of a finger or two and would do the job just once I might try
them. I am a tool hog but price is still an important consideration.
On Sat, 21 Nov 2020 10:44:24 -0600, shiggins email@example.com
I dunno about that. Shapers sure, but I was into slot car racing at
the time and every description of builting a slot car racing track in
one of the magazines or books included making the slots with a router,
so they were certainly available and expected to be within the means
of a hobbyist with enough space to set up his own slot car track. Note
that my Dad had no clue what a router was.
>Many users were still making trim
>with specialized hand planes. I obtained my 11-280 from one of those
>guys when his arthritis got the best of him. He made sure I knew how to
>repair the spindle and quill before I took it home. There were all sorts
>of attachments for virtually all stationary equipment - and some really
>scary shit for handheld tools. If they looked like they wouldn't charge
>the price of a finger or two and would do the job just once I might try
>them. I am a tool hog but price is still an important consideration. >