Swingman and I actually used 3/4" maple for a high end kitchen/bathrooms
remodel year before last. There must have been close to 50 drawers
total. All dovetailed or rabbeted with added domino reinforcements.
They looked rich.
That said, for kitchen or bathroom cabinets for a normal budget job I
prefer 1/2" Baltic Birch.
If I were dovetailing absolutely 3/4" solid stock.
Here they are
Either one but one may be preferable depending...
The 7/16 is fine as long as it is ample for whatever joint you intend to
The 3/4 is fine regardless of the joint. Especially if you intend to get
max usefulness from the drawer. I almost always partition drawers by
cutting 1/4" evenly spaced "V"s into the sides. That lets me easily make
I also very frequently fit drawers - even very shallow drawers - with
sliding trays. I do that by using 3/4" sides and making a wide 1/4" rabbet
along the inside top of them. The rabbet is slightly wider than the tray
will be deep and the bottom supports the tray. The rabbet also removes the
top portion of the "V"s for the bottom part of the drawer. The trays can be
either lift out (same size as drawer inside) or sliding (one half or less
than the drawer inside); I generally do the latter.
"A place for everything and everything in its place" :-)
This isn't an answer to your specific question, and I have read all
the other posts about 3/4" being fine, but I'll tell you my story:
I built 2 slide out boxes for all of our plastic containers, one for
the covers, one for the containers themselves. They each take up 1/2
of one base cabinet, i.e. one above the shelf, one below it.
I used 3/4" ply and bullnosed the top edges. They always look bulky to
me when I extend them. Maybe it's because they aren't holding any
"visual weight" but they just look overbuilt. 2 years later and I
still wonder if they would look better had I gone with 1/2" stock.
I may be building all new drawers for my kitchen soon, so I am very
interested in this issue. My current drawers, in 1950's stick built
cabinets, are 1/2" stock. I do not plan on replacing the cabinets,
just building drawers and doors.
Actually, it pretty simple. Go with what does the job, both cost
effectively for your budget, and attractively for you and your design.
I use whatever is spec'ed by the client.
Many high end kitchens these days have a professional designer involved
in the initial design and almost to a man/woman, they go with 3/4" thick
drawer sides/components. There is something to be said for that in both
looks and function once you see a well designed kitchen with well
executed drawers of that thickness ... it does convey a sense of above
average _custom work_ to a kitchen in the upper price range.
That said, I used 1/2" poplar for my own kitchen drawers and they do the
job just fine and fit nicely in my budget at the time. Pretty cheesy by
today's designer standards. :)
I've also built a ton of drawers for others using 1/2" pre-finished stock.
My choice is to "split the difference", and use 5/8" stock, which is
what I generally put in the kitchens in the homes I build.
5/8" drawer thickness, IMO, gives you the best of both worlds, so is
worth considering for your new kitchen drawers.
On 1/18/2013 10:51 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> I may be building all new drawers for my kitchen soon, so I am very
> interested in this issue. My current drawers, in 1950's stick built
> cabinets, are 1/2" stock. I do not plan on replacing the cabinets,
> just building drawers and doors.
On 1/18/2013 11:09 AM, Swingman wrote:
I meant to add that you will certainly want to consider, before you make
a decision about your drawer side thickness, the type of drawer slides
you will be using.
While it is possible to use just about any thickness you want with some
drawer slides; manufacturers of the modern undermount, self/soft close
drawer slides will make it much easier for you to dimension your drawer
widths for your cabinet opening if you stick to standard 1/2, 5/8 and
3/4 ... but be sure to double check.
In many cases, you may have to buy a specific submodel of the same slide
for the corresponding thickness, so don't assume anything in that regard.
Better for what?
My reply was directed to someone who was talking about kitchen drawers,
not furniture drawers.
IME, "traditionally fitted" drawers are not going to be well received
by the modern kitchen user these days.
Folks want soft/self closing drawers, and doors, in their kitchens now,
often with other sliding components, none of which they are going to get
with "traditionally fitted" drawers, at least not without the time and
expense that would make it prohibitive to begin with ... they will want
to put their money somewhere else where they get more bang for their buck.
Perhaps for some areas in the kitchen, but certainly not for the
majority of the drawers in a moern kitchen, which, when loaded with the
myriad of utensils and heavy cooking items these days, the friction
sliding of a "traditionally fitted drawer", even with nylon runners,
will have a very short life span.
I already have "traditionally fitted drawers" in my stick built
kitchen cabinets and trust me, I'm going to use slides when I build
the new ones. Even the nylon runners on the face frame and center bar
On Fri, 18 Jan 2013 14:11:48 -0600, Swingman wrote:
Last I looked, this was the "recreational woodworking" group, not the
"commercial kitchen cabinet builders" group :-).
(If that sounds a little snippy, it's because Comcast just clobbered all
our email accounts and I'm too miserable from the flu to fight with them
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
On 1/20/2013 8:53 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Fri, 18 Jan 2013 14:11:48 -0600, Swingman wrote:
So - and upon your last look - when a "recreational woodworker" asks a
question/expresses an interest in a subject, only a "recreational"
woodworker can answer in this "recreational woodworking" group?
Interesting interpretation of the purpose of this group you got there.
And here all along I was thinking it was global warming, politics, the
price of gas, and gun control ... go figure, eh?
So you heard that 'sound' too, but pulled the trigger on the post anyway?
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