I can't say. It was not always that way for me until I started buying quality blades.
I recall in shop class in 1968 you would receive 3 licks if caught using the jointer to surface more one edge and one side or to clean up a an edge after going through the TS. ;~)
Maybe that was what those hand planes were for. ;~)
I think some guys were and are unreasonable... I cannot tell you how many times I've uncovered defects on the first jointed edge or face of rough cut that led me to joint the opposite edge and/or face so that the defect would be removed by the thickness planer or saw in final dimensioning... I see it as a lack of reasonableness in their position on things.
Then you would proceed with straightening the opposite edge as usual with the TS, flipping the board, and cutting the board to width with the defect on the waste side. Same would apply to a face with a defect.
That depends on how uniform the board was to start with, and other factors... It is not unusual for me to find that the rough cut board tapers in thickness and/or width with the result being that much more wood is removed from some areas than others during 4 squaring. Add in discoveries about twist, cupping, checks, figure, grain direction changes, etc. and changing the initial reference surfaces during preparation is not unusual at all. Of course if grain and figure alignment and surface quality don't matter for the intended use this doesn't matter much... just cram it through like framing grade dimension lumber is prepared!
In case anyone else is interested in building his or her own strop, I ordered an 8-9 oz (leather is not perfectly uniform thickness, hence the range), 8/64"-9/64" thick, 1 1/2" wide, 50" long, "Tandy" brand, vegetable-tanned strap, for about $17.50 including S&H. Product is available in alot of widths and from Amazon and E-bay.
It is merely my guess and hope that this item will be suitable for a strop. The basis for my guess is that unembossed belts are considered usable, and this is a "belt-blank". It's a carvable one at that, so I anticipate that it will have the suitable firmness/pliability.
Wikipedia has some useful information about leather. Cheers!
Now I need to find a quarter-sawn piece of Maple from the tree whose branches hung over the crossroads where Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil... Roadtrip!
I finally broke down and bought a copy of that movie (and the movie of the same name starring a young Britney.) The former I bought primarily for the soundtrack, the latter for the jailbait almost T&A. ;) But seriously, she has one nice pai^H^H^Hvoice, doesn't she?
But forget about that wood. Mr. Legba, he doan like no woodchoppahs roun' his trees, y'heah?
Speaking of resources:
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with my reference.
-- Creativity can solve almost any problem. The creative act, the defeat of habit by originality, overcomes everything. -- George Lois
I've got a RJ CD. Haven't seen the movie (didn't know there was one). I have a book of RJ tab too...but I never got very far with it. I'll lend it to you after you've got MJH straight.
I got to keep movin', I've got to keep movin' Blues fallin' down like hail, blues fallin' down like hail Umm-mm-mm-mm, blues fallin' down like hail, blues fallin' down like hail
And the day keeps on worrin' me, there's a hellhound on my trail Hellhound on my trail, hellhound on my trail...
I got to keep movin' got to keep on movin' Blues fallin' down like hail, blues fallin' down like hail Cause I gotta find, three times 12.50, to get his dogs outta jail, Um-Umm-mm-mm get his dogs outta jail, get his dogs outta jail....
And my leather's wearin' thin, while I go to, pay The Man his bail, pay The Man his bail, pay The Man his bail...
Systimatic ATBR 50 tooth blade does fine. For more critical luthiery work, I'll touch up the joints with a #5 or an LN block. Haven't seen a jointer yet that can produce as smooth or as flat a surface.
Thanks for starting me on a saw blade/tooth lesson. I never did figure out what ATBR stands for, for I learned it should produce good on crosscut-miter cuts. Does this apply to ripping too? I know ripping and crosscut saws are completely different.
I should have wrote I know ripping and crosscut *blades* are different. And I know they have combination blades. Roland Johnson of FWW said, at the WoodworkingShows, that one should never use those. : ) My concern is academic, since I'm going to get my planes in shape, but I'm still interested in learning what I can about blades.
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