The right blade makes all the difference.
Last time I cut the stuff on my table saw, I had no chipping on either
I don't know the exact model number of the blade, but it's a moderately
priced Freud 50 tooth combo blade.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
What will help is cutting it so the show side is cut first, i.e., the force
from the blade should be against the side you want chipless.
I cut melboard with a rip blade on my table saw...top surface is fine, chips
on the bottom. If I want the bottom side to be chipless too I cut in two
passes...first pass with blade ony 1/8 or so high, second with it high
enough to cut off. You could score the chipping side with a knife too but
rather hard to do so precisely where the saw blade will be. A zero
clearance insert helps too as it helps support the downward force of the
blade against the unsupported bottom melamine.
I also sometimes use a saber saw. In this case, the bottom is chipless, the
top is not. That is because the saw is cutting on the upstroke...the mel on
the bottom is supported, that on the top is not.
Perhaps the easiest thing to do if you want both sides chipless is to cut
oversize and trim to size with a router. Since the router bit is applying
no downward force against either edge it will cut smoothly (as long as the
melamine hasn't been loosened by the saw). I find that I need about 3/16
extra to do this.
I use tape on plywood, no idea if it would help on mel board. I don't use
the blue tape though, I use regular since it sticks more agressively. And
when I remove it I pull it off *toward* the cut edge.
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