I have a router table that I'd like to add a T-Track miter slot to. Other
than trimming laminate, I've never tried to put a dado in a melamine top.
I'm concerned that the bit might crack the melamine rather than cut it.
Should I adjust the bit speed or just let 'er rip with a 3/4 straight bit.
Anyone have any hints on this for me?
There are 10 kinds of people - those who understand binary and those who
I come here for a bunch of reasons. Initially, it was to learn
techniques, and that still happens, but my main reason for being here
most of the time is a sense of community amongst people who have similar
Not similar levels of talent by any means. The range in here is from
absolute newcomer to everything, to wizened old master who knows more in
his thumb than I'll ever hope to know.
What I don't come here for (and thankfully it happens very rarely) is
that know-it-all-but-don't-help-anyone attitude that was shown in Pop's
response to Vic.
I'll say it again, Vic. Most of the people in here who have an ounce of
talent are more than willing to help anyone who's interested in helping
themselves. Which you seem to be.
I'm not gonna plonk ya Pop. Not yet. I'd miss too much. But I can be a
PITA sometimes too.
You have a good day now.
Aw, I take it from the source. I've found loots of helpful folk here thru
the years and an occasional dork like pop. I've survived worse. What's funny
is, I have and know how to use about 6 different routers - I just have never
dealt with melamine or formica before. Rather ask and look stupid than ruin
a nice tabletop and feel stupid.
Actually, if you'd DAGS, you could minimize temptation to folks to give
you response you don't approve of.
Or, lighten up and deal gracefully with consequences of laziness.
If you want to be judgemental, what would you expect in return?
I've routed melamine a number of times with no problems. Make sure you have
a good, sharp, carbide bit. For a 3/4" bit, stick with top speed. If
you're still concerned, you could stick a melamine blade in your table saw
(assuming that you have both) and run the top against your rip fence to
define the sides. I'd still finish cleaning it out with a router to keep
the bottom nice and flat.
One trick I use for laminates is to make your first pass just barely
touch the surface (say 1/64" or so deep for Formica, just "kissing"
the surface for melamine). That way, the laminate has as much support
under it as possible for that first critical cut.
A router bit - one without a skewed edge - doesn't tend to chip
melamine like a saw blade. The saw blade is pushing the melamine down
and that cracks it; the router bit is cutting parallel to the surface,
no "push". Still, the plastic *will* chip from time to time. A very
shallow pass just cutting the melamine followed by full depth should
Did that on my table. I put grooves at each long side to lay in some
T-track. Great for fence and jig hold downs. I also cut a miter
slot pependicular to the T-track although it dosn't get much use.
Should have put in another T-track for featherboard (etc) hold down.
I did the cuts in one pass moving fairly slowly. Maybe should have
cut in 2 or more passes to make it easier on the bit and router. I
was going through the melamine (formica) and 3/4 MDF.
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