It's like any other piece of machinery on the market where competition and
demand are what brings a price down. That fact that approximately 10% of the
population have a mobility problem and even fewer would consider buying such
a device means it's unlikely the price would ever decrease under current or
previous market conditions.
That's why even a basic wheelchair capable of travelling around outside a
hospital setting retails for $3000 and climbs from there. Medicare (Canadian
in this case) with the recommendation of a doctor and/or physiotherapist
will pay approximately 80%, but the money has to come from somewhere.
It's ironic since three similar wheelchairs sell for the equivalent of a
small car, yet the engineering in a car easily outstrips that of three
wheelchairs. However, the demand for cars also easily outstrips the demand
for wheelchairs, so they just don't sell for the same price ratio.
Upscale, at one time you pointed out to us that General was making a saw
lower than most, specifically for people in chairs. Did you get one of
If not, is there any safe way that you can elevate yourself and/or chair
to get over the table and blade so that you can see better when you're
Well I do those on the radial arm saw, but all the same ... when I can't
see exactly where I might be going because the original mark is facing
away from me, I get my 6" engineer's square out and a marking knife and
I scribe all 'round so I CAN see where the blade enters the wood
relative to the mark - then adjust as necessary.
Knife is much more accurate than pen, especially for this job, somewhat
prevents splintering and I find my ageing eyes can pick a knife mark out
more easily than the Rotring.
That little square is one of the tools I'd most hate to give up.
I have also put down a couple of strips masking tape in front of the blade
on my table saw. Then I take a straight edge and place it along side the
saw blade and score a line with a knife. Then I peal away one side of the
tape and I now have a reference of where the side of the blade is. You
could also draw a pencil mark.
I think I did a terrible job of explaining but I hope you get the idea.
I do understand what you explained. I was negligent in my original
explanation by not explaining that I use a wheelchair and can't easily feed
the wood and lean over it and at the same time watch the leading edge of the
wood feed into the blade. Perhaps the solution is what I suggested to Morris
which is an unconventional solution, but not in the realm of impossible.
I think you're much better off just installing the fence and using the
fence. I don't think I'm being a Safety Nazi in suggesting this. The usual
safety-nazi stuff just comes from rote following the "rules" crap. *This*
evokes a response somewhat more akin to "ARE YOU F*CKING KIDDING ME? Just
shove your arm into the blade and be done with it." Not your usual SN
Give some serious thought to using a rabbet bit and featherboard on the
router table. There's so much less setup and so much less to get wrong.
I agree with Mike -- that is NOT even CLOSE to safe. I might not have put it
quite the way he did... but I entirely agree. Climb-cutting like you propose
is just *begging* to get the workpiece, and the miter gauge along with it,
thrown back into your teeth.
Set the fence or a guide of some some sort, or use a sled or a jig. Get your
measurements and setup correct, and it truly won't matter that you can't see
the leading edge of the wood going into the blade. Make a few test cuts on
scrap first, if you need to, to convince yourself. You really don't need to
If you feel that you simply *must* line up a pencil mark on the back side of
the blade, do it with the saw turned *off*. Then clamp the workpiece to the
miter gauge, lower the blade below the table, pull the gauge to the front of
the saw, raise the blade, and make the cut normally -- moving the wood away
You don't say what you use for safety equipment, but if your eye protection
consists only of goggles or safety glasses, please consider using a face
shield instead. I haven't used goggles for at least ten years -- the face
shield is so much more convenient, and protects so much more. Your eyes are
not the only part of your face that need protection; imagine what it would
feel like to take a kickback in the nose or teeth, or the larynx, where a
high-speed impact could be fatal. Operating the saw from a seated position
puts your face and throat that much more in the "line of fire" and makes a
face shield that much more important.
I have and use a full face shield every time as well as a heavy denim smock
that covers my upper body completely. There's just too many mini projectile
slivers and sawdust coming off the saw blade for me to consider not using a
face shield. I'm hoping to pick up the Kreg Mitre (or something similar)
from Lee Valley tomorrow and with that I should be able to cut to any line,
That's something I didn't consider and might work well. Thanks.
Step #1 is to mark your board on the leading edge.
Step #2 is to have some way of aligning the edge mark with the blade edge.
In my case, I used a knife to scribe lines from each side of the blade onto
the cast iron table and throat plate, sprayed paint onto same, wiped off
excess paint leaving it in the scribed lines. I still prefer to use my
radial saw for cutting out half laps.
I'd clamp a straight board to the table top, parallel to the miter
slots/blade, to act as a fence. This to control the length of the lap as
would your regular fence. You could use an adjustable square with the head
in a miter slot and the end of the blade against the "fence" to position the
I sometimes make one cut at the line (where I want it) and then cut the
rest out. You could even cut the line with a hand saw or router. The
advantage to this is you gain a kerf's width of fudge room.
Another thing I did was mark the outsides of the blade on the little
orange insert my saw has for doing this kind of stuff. That way, I've
got a reference to work with before the saw blade enters the work. It's
not always accurate with a wabble dado, though.
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
How about if you use the method of making a first cut at your line with a
saw of choice. That way you would have a reference point on the back of the
board. Then take the method of extending a line from the edge of the blade
to the front of the table saw. That way you would have the fudge factor of
a saw blade and a reference point at the back of the stock to line up to the
edge of the blade. Both would at the back of the stock.
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