In keeping with my pattern of starting out to do a quick and
dirty and then having a project get away - I started out to
build a small wall mounted cabinet for router bits. Saw the
idea in one of the recent WWing mags and it looked pretty
simple and straight foreward - some 1/2 or 3/4" ply for the
sides, top and bottom, drill some holes in some 3/4" MDF
and glue onto 1/4" tempered board which will ride in slots
in the cabinet sides. Slide one of the bit holders out, take
it to the router ... A simple solution to an existing problems
- bits in holes in various pieces of 2x4s, stuck in a drawer.
Figured three pull out shelves should do it. Four pieces of
ply, a little MDF and some tempered board. Simple.
Then I thought of bearing sets, allen wrenches, collets,
instruction sheets and so forth. A few drawers would
But why use ply when I've got a bunch of honey - or maybe
it's black, locust. And maybe use sliding dovetails to
attach the sides to the top and bottom? They'd only add
about an inch to the width, why not - this thing will only
be 15-16" wide, 21$" tall and maybe 7 inches deep.
While cutting some MDF for a prototype to be pocket
screwed together, cut the top and bottom oversized
to accomodate a door - to keep dust out.
If there was going to be a door, why not two? And
if there's going to be two doors - well why not make
them coopered doors?
And that's when I had to remember my geometry and
trig. 15 1/2" opening width, 2 foot radius curve. Got
the arc's angle, divided by two to get the angle for
each of the doors. Split that angle into three - each
coopered door will be made of three, initially the same
width, boards. Some more trig and I had the width
of the boards as well as the total angle between
adjacent boards. That total angle (about 6 degrees)
can be all cut on one face of each board or split half
and half and cut on both adjacent edges. The latter
seems to produce a nicer looking curve using MDF
for the prototypes.
Cut a 3+ degree set up block out of MDF on the
miter saw, set the table saw blade with it, set the
fence to the desired width and cut some prototypes.
Then things got messy.
The edges on the outside needed to be cut to line
up with the sides of the cabinet - and that cut
wasn't 3 or 6 degrees but 12 instead. And where
the two coopered doors would meet I wanted to
have each rabbetted for a 1/4" overlap - and they
don't meet parallel to each other but with a total
included angle of the 6 degrees.
Am also going to have to use knife hinges AND
figure out a way to hold the doors closed - bullet
Rather than continue to re-invent the wheel, other
than the few pages in Krenov's book about coopered
door making, does anyone have a URL for coopered
door making procedures or an article or book that
covers the subject in sufficient detail to semi-
successfuly make coopered doors?
If I can do the coopered doors I'll then have a go
at making parallel curved drawer fronts. No good
deed goes unpunished.
fun stuff this woodworking