Conv to 220?

Convenient snip, toller. Here's the *full* quote, which demonstrates clearly that you *did* do exactly what I *said* you did:

Here are the instructions from Jennair:

"The neutral of this unit is grounded to the frame through the green grounding wire. If used on new branch-circuit installations (1996 NEC), mobile homes, recreational vehicles, or in an area where local codes prohibit grounding through the neutral conductor, untwist or disconnect the green wire and connect the green wire to ground in accordance with local code. Connect the white neutral to the service neutral."

When you told him "the green wire has to be attached to the neutral".

Read the next to last sentence of the manufacturer's instructions: "...connect the green wire to ground..."

Reply to
Doug Miller
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The switch in the table saw, being cord-and-plug-connected, is not part of the circuit, and this article therefore does not apply.

Reply to
Doug Miller

Interesting, but irrelevant - for safety, and Code compliance, this conductor

*must* (as I have noted in an earlier post) be moved to the *grounding* bus in the subpanel. Once that is done, none of the considerations you give here apply.
Reply to
Doug Miller

He had a three wire circuit. What ground? I was quite correct, which I presume you are smart enough to know; but are just too big an ass to admit. What on earth motivates you to act like this?

Reply to
toller

The metal flex conduit that he described in the first sentence of the original post.

Obviously you were not.

I'm certainly smart enough to know the difference between neutral and ground. And I'll never admit that you were right here, because you *clearly* are totally wrong. *Read* the thread, for crying out loud: the instructions the guy quoted say clearly to connect the green wire to ground, and you told him just as clearly to connect it to the circuit neutral. How can you possibly think even for a moment that you were right?

It's really very simple, troller: the electrical "advice" you give is incorrect and dangerous. You don't have the first idea what the hell you're talking about. You know just enough about it to sound knowledgeable to someone who knows less about it than you do, but most of what you say is just flat wrong (like the instance we're discussing right now) - and a lot of it is downright dangerous. My motivation is to keep other people from getting injured or killed by following your incorrect and dangerous "advice".

Reply to
Doug Miller

You know Dave, seeing that you are talking about just an 8ft run to the existing range receptacle and sounds like not far from there to your saw, I would be inclined just to go into the panel disconnect and remove the existing range circuit - replace the breaker with the needed 20A -

2pole 240V and put a new run of 12AWG 2+gnd to a 20A receptacle at the saw - job done. I believe you are required to have an inspection.

Do not leave the disconnected cable inside the panel. It must be removed from the panel but you could leave it tacked up nearby for a possible future. If there is truly no ground in this cable it likely is likely of little use for code compliance in future.

An alternate if you think you may have more 240V loads could be to use the existing 40A breaker and supply a small sub to provide multiple branch circuits, 120 or 240, for your workshop.

Ed

Reply to
Ed Beresnikow

God, you just don't give up! I can't imagine what you are like in person.

Reply to
toller

Me??? Time after time, I and others have pointed out the oftentimes dangerous flaws in your electrical advice, and yet you keep going, remaining under the delusion that you actually know what you're talking about, despite abundant evidence to the contrary.

No, I'm not going to give up. As long as you keep posting incorrect and dangerous answers to electrical questions (like the one discussed above), I'm going to keep pointing out that your answers are incorrect and dangerous.

If you don't like that, the solution is simple: stop posting incorrect and dangerous electrical advice.

I don't have any more patience for fools in person than I have online. :-)

I don't have it in for you personally, toller. You may have noticed (since you haven't *really* killfiled me as you claim) that I've given you some helpful and polite answers to your woodworking questions here, and to a couple of your plumbing questions in a.h.r.

The *only* area where I have a problem with you is electrical questions: you DO NOT know enough to be competent to answer them safely. If you were giving bad advice on, say, painting, I'd laugh at you a time or two, and leave it at that, because no real harm could possibly result. Electricity is different: it's dangerous if mishandled, and bad electrical advice can kill people.

Sadly, you appear ignorant of *both* of those concepts.

Reply to
Doug Miller

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