Ok, I have an old craftsman 10" RAS that I inherited from my father. I
have just finally installed it on my new workbench, in my new workshop
that was part of a garage overhaul. Went to plug it in and behold I
couldn't because it was wired for 220. All my plugs are for 110. How do
I convert it back to 110 or should I wire the plug to 220. For either
case how do I do it. I can do the wiring and etc, if someone just tells
me how. thanks.
there should be a wireing diagram on the inside cover on the side of
the motor. [ where the curley wire goes in! lol ] i dont remember the
how or why of it but you will only be changing a couple of the
conections. IMHO you would be better off running a 22o circuit in the
garage if that is possible. i know mine seems to run better on 220
than itdid on 110.
Hi Guys, Mine came wired for 110 and I could not rip a 2 inch plank without
the thermal switch on top cutting off. I wired it to 220 and the diagrams
are on the cover and never had a problem after that.
The saw probably needs it own circuit anyhow. Do you happen to have a 120v
20a circuit that isn't otherwise used? If so, then you can change the saw
to 120v and be good to go. There is probably a wiring diagram on or in the
If not, then you should add a new circuit. Assuming you have space in your
breaker box, it would make more sense and be just as easy to add a 240v
circuit. (240v requires two breakers)
And while it is very easy to do (run the cable, put a breaker in, attach the
cable to the breaker, attach the other end to your new outlet) if you have
to ask how to do it, you probably should have someone who doesn't have to
ask do it. You can do 90% of the work by running the cable from where the
outlet will be to the breaker box.
Personally I would wire the shop for 220v. Lots of good tools require
220v, like decent welders, air compressors, hiher end woodworking
If you do it your self apply for an electrical permit at you local city
goverment, and do it right. Or hire an electrician to do it. What ever
the case don't get hurt or burn your house down. Choose the appropriate
wire and breaker for the current you need.
I did have the electrician put in a dedicated 20 amp service for the
RAS, a dedicated 20 am circuit for the dust collector and alternating
plugs on different 20 amp circuits. just didn't know if the 220 would
be better. thanks for the info
I have a Sears RAS which I converted over to 220. Fairly simple to do.
Cut off the old plug, switch over the motor, put on new plug. Follow
that order to prevent tragic mistakes. From the standpoint of current
draw, at 110V. the saw could pop a 15A breaker when heavily loaded, or
when starting on a heavily loaded circuit. Even worse if the lights are
on that circuit. @ 220V the RAS uses about 1/3 of the available current
on a 20A circuit. In theory, it will start a _little_ more crisply due
to the somewhat lower line voltage drop. Mine comes up to speed NOW,
not later. I consider the greatest advantage is the removal of a large
tool from the available 110V circuits.
Assuming you can figure out how to change the RAS to 120v, your dedicated
circuit will be fine.
If you can't, then changing the circuit to 240v is trivial; the hard part is
running the cable and that is already done.
running the cable and that is already done.
I am curious don't you need thicker insulation at the higher voltage
and therefore cable rated for 220V and the correct amperage?. Also what
is the amperage rating of your saw?
What ever the case you should talk to your electrical inspector or
licensed electrician, not take newsgroup advice on this,which is worth
what you paid for it.
I hope you are kidding.
You only get 120v in your house. 240v uses two hots, 120v uses only one hot
and a grounding conductor; so there is 120v on all the wires regardless of
whether it is 240v or 120v.
Besides, romex is generally rated to 600v.
In fact 240v is less demanding because the current is half that of 120v; he
could probably use #14 for his saw on 240v when 120v requires #12..
I generally find the advice here to be very valuable; well perhaps not
generally, but often.
The gauge of wire needed is determined by the current (amperage) that it needs
to carry, and not by the voltage. The tool will draw half the amps at 240V
that it draws at 120V, and thus can actually use a *lighter* gauge of wire:
you could run it on a 15A circuit at 240V.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
On 13 Feb 2005 21:01:53 -0800, email@example.com wrote:
Rarely does the insulation rating of home wiring come into play as
most wire insulation seems to be in the 600V range or at least 300V,
depending on the type. Just about any wire for electrical service
wiring you can buy at the borg (not counting low voltage wire such as
bell wire, intercom wire, low voltage lighting wire, for all the nit
pickers out there) will function equally well on 120V or 240V.
The factor that is always a consideration is the wire gauge, which
determines the number of amperes the circuit can safely supply. The
higher the gauge number, the fewer amps it can carry. The common
14 gauge - 15 Amp
12 gauge - 20 Amp
10 gauge - 30 Amp
That covers everything you'll be able to buy breakers for up to (but
not including) your new welder, dryer, or range.
Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999
Most power cords are rated for 600V. Code I think. The neat part is
that neither side of the 220V circuit is further from ground/neutral
than the hot side of the 110. Of course, if you should happen to get a
hot leg of the 220 in EACH hand at the SAME time, that would be bad(tm).
As a matter practice, I make it a point to avoid EVER handling wires
(which THINK are dead) in such a way that that I am holding a pair of
wires, one per hand. My mom once walked into a room where my dad was
wiring overhead lights, and she said, "Here, let me turn on the light so
you can see what you're doing". Things got tense.
I'd still prefer to run on 240, just because there is less drop with
distance. We don't think about it a lot, but there is a lot of
distance in a normal wiring run. In my garashop, which is 24' wide
with a 10' ceiling, the panel is on the opposite side from my WW
tools, so I have a wire that runs up from the panel, across the
ceiling and down to an outlet. I have four 240V outlets on that run (I
only use one tool at a time, and don't like having to unplug and
re-plug) and the run extends more than 15' down the wall. All told I
have over 50' of wire just to get to the farthest receptacle. For a
20A circuit #12 wire will handle up to 70 feet - but don't forget to
add in the cord to your tool. Only my TS is more than a couple feet
from the wall, and it has a 20' cord on it. Just to be on the safe
side I ran #10 wire in the wall and don't ever anticipate any voltage
I am also adding a dedicated circuit for the dust collector (when I
ever get one) and maybe another for a stationary compressor if I ever
decide I want to be able to spray finishes.
It is pretty easy to run additional circuits now while the walls are
still just studs, so I'm going well overboard, but I think it will be
Where did you get the information that a 20A 12ga circuit is only good for
around 70 feet Tim? I know that I have measured voltage at equipment at the
end of my runs and that's a lot more than 70 feet and seen no voltage drop.
I'm not at all sure the 70 foot thing is accurate.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.