Anybody use CMT saw blades a lot. Love em, hate em?
Woodline USA, which is right down the road from me, has started carrying
them and has good prices. They seem to run a good amount below the
equivalent Freud and Forrest models.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Yeah, did a big amount of vibration show up at the same time it went
Good ideas alter the power balance in relationships, that is why
good ideas are always initially resisted. Good ideas come with a
heavy burden. Which is why so few people have them. So few people
can handle it.
-- Hugh Macleod
Mine never was "perfectly" flat, but neither was my old set. There are
other things I don't like about them. My old 40 year old 7" set, which
was not carbide was easier to set up, and cut just as well. I should of
bought the 6" set of Olson or got my old set sharpened again. My Freud
set is the "cheap" $100 set, not the expensive set. It was however my
first, and last, Freud purchase.
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
Fully realising I am about to commit heresy of the first order, I am going
to charge ahead anyway :-)
I use a blade from Harbor Freight, that costs under $20 and I have seen it
on sale. Its their 50 tooth C3 blade. The cross cuts are very smooth and
the rips are also good.
Considering the cost, its almost as cheap to get a new blade as have it
I know, I know. But for 20 bucks, it could at least be your green wood and
treated wood blade.
Earlier in the summer I picked up three CMT blades (brand new in original
package) at a yard sale. I paid $10 each. About 10 days ago I pulled my
Forrest WW2 off to send it back for resharpening and stuck a 50T combo ATBR CMT
model 215.050.10 on in its place.
It is a piece of shit.
Solid pine, oak, poplar crosscuts are all hairy. Poplar and pine rips are very
fuzzy. There is heavy chipping to 3/8 inch on the bottom side of 1/2 inch
Baltic Birch and plenty of fuzz where there is no chipping. The BB has to be
scored first, then cut to reduce the tearout, and there is still some chipout
I don't have a ZCI on the saw, but never needed it with the WW2. I played with
the CMT blade for about an hour then said screw it since I was partway through a
project and put the WW2 back on. It's still dull, but even so it cuts much
better than the CMT blade using the same solid wood and BB ply used to test the
CMT. The Freud Diablo blades ($30 at the Borg) are much better than this CMT
The other two CMT blades I have are 251.042.10 "General Purpose" blade and
210.080.10 "Melamine and Fine Cut Off" blade. I have not used either of these
yet, but have the sneaking suspicion a fool and his money have been parted when
it comes to CMT saw blades.
If I complete the work in progress while weekend warrioring the next few days I
will try to drop these other two blades into the TS and see if the other one is
just a bad blade or if the whole line is a POS. This is my first experience
with a CMT saw blade and you can tell I'm underwhelmed. Probably ok for cutting
up PT crap and boards with staples, sand and grit embedded.
To the OP: Just go buy yourself a Forrest WW2. Buy the best and only cry
(whine, bitch and moan) once. I may just take a leaf out of Leon's book and buy
a second WW2 to be my backup blade while the other one is being sharpened. I've
wasted more than the price of a WW2 buying other cheaper blades over the years,
and they have just about all been disappointments. I'd have been money ahead to
just buy two of them years ago.
LOL, Now let me talk you into maybe getting a 3rd. ;~) I now have 3,
"thanks you Swingman". I sent my oldest back to Forrest and had a flat
grind added to the resharpening process. I do a lot of groves and stub
tennon joints when making paneled cabinet doors, the flat grind makes a
great flat bottom cut.
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