I've been chasing my tail trying to find the right place (/person) to cut up
some ¼", ½", & ¾" plywood so I can make some built-in cabinet drawers with
front lock joints, rear dados (or even possibly rabbet and dados), and
I learned that Baltic Birch (BB) is a company and their products are .750"
if you buy 3/4". Same for 1/2" = .5"
I understand that if you are lucky enough to be using BB you can use a 1/2"
straight bit to cut dados to join a 1/2" rear into a 1/2" side drawer joint,
and the product will slide in with little (sanding maybe?), or no adjustment
for a TIGHT dado joint.
But it looks like I'll probably not be so lucky as to be getting BB cut up,
so I need to know what to do with the ¼"(double flute straight, & double
flute upspiral), ½"(double flute mortising-plungable) straight router bits I
have to deal with the fact that the plywood pieces I have cut to the right
sizes will not be ½", but likely say 1/16" or 1/32" less than .5". They are
titanium carbide bits and brand new, so I assume great cutting performance.
HERE IS MY QUESTION
I have a router table and I need to know how to make a TIGHT dado for
nominal ½" birch (not BB) plywood pieces. If I used my ½" straight bit the
joint would not be tight. I guess I could use my ¼" bit and move it over to
the right width; say 15/32". Or should I ensure I buy BB (.5") in the first
place, so I only have the ¼" depth to deal with in my routered dados. I am
not a practiced woodworker, but I do have knowledge of cnc machining in
metal, and know how to use woodworking tools. What am I looking at layering
wise? Two width cuts and three depth, and in what order?
Freud's router bit catalog lists 3/8", 7/16", and ½" straight bits only in
that order. Do I need another bit greater than my 1/4"s, & which one?
Whoops, Freud have a 15/32" "undersized plywood" bit on the next page. Is
this what I need. Is all undersized plywood the same under-size, and should
one setup produce a TIGHT joint?
For the ¼" bottom grooves, I am assuming that it is fine to use a 1/4"
straight bit for the ¼" nominal bottom plywood, because it will be floating
(and expanding/contracting) in this groove anyway, and only supporting.
For the front lock joint I will be using my table saw, and will have to deal
with a 1/8" thick combination blade to make the ¼" wide cuts. To be dealt
with later.... I do not want to buy a stacking, or wobble blade, really; may
not keep the TS.