cfls again what are you guys smoking?

Not necessarily, here's why. Although I can agree with you in principle all wiring connections in J-boxes come loose over time and as they do the resistance increases and so does the electric bill. Especially with aluminum wiring.

Ceiling lights that are enclosed contain the heat and feed it to the ceiling and thus to the wiring connections. (With incandescent lights) I have had shorter than expected life on any bulbs outside of LED.

Anyhow, I have to replace the entire fixture because I got sick and tired of the problems. When I removed the fixture, I found all the associated wiring from the fixture, cracked, and pieces laying about. The wire nuts all showed signs of heat, and the last couple inches of the house wiring were discolored and very brittle. These were your typical 4x4 boxes, not the deep ones, and there was very little "spare" wiring, so I had to be careful and clip the wired where it was all soft insulation, and then reconnect them to the new fixtures. That is what drove me to checking out the possibility of LED wiring, with remote transformers. Since if this happens again then someone is going to have to crawl the attic and replace the wiring anyhow.

If the J-boxes weren't right next to the fixture you could shoot it with a temp gun, or infrared camera looking for signs of heat, if so it needs to be repaired. Most systems when they fail in the J box just with open up or short against the box. Chandeliers are very prone to this as is any type of ceiling fixtures.

So what I am saying is that it is a real possibility if you are going to run new wire anyhow.

Now if the wiring has enough slack in it, then all fixtures could use the original house wiring with low resistance to 12 volt lighting and then all that needs to be done is cut the wiring someplace that is serviceable, and install a transformer between the light switch and the fixtures. That would be the simple way.

In my MH all I had to do was twist out the old bulbs and insert the LED's. A bit pricey, but it was worth it for the extra days in the boonies without burning gas for the generator.

Reply to
OFWW
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Where are you located? Zip code for nearest major city will suffice.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Costco, 3-pack LED bulbs, 60W equiv. $14.99 with $8 rebate applied at checkout.

-BR

Reply to
Brewster

No, if the resistance of the wire increases the power bill will

*decrease* (with the possible exception of "negative resistance" loads like CFLs).

Irrelevant. It still increases the cost of the installation. More wire is needed.

All may be reasons you may want to do this but also irrelevant.

Reply to
krw

"New installations only" 8^)

Moving the heat sensitive power supply to a remote location will be a boost for reliability and significantly reduce the physical dimensions (namely depth) of the fixture. Think of no hole 'recessed' ceiling lights.

Many LED arrays (talking about the actual emitter here) drop 24V or higher. The power supply for a string may actually operate at several hundred volts. In actuality these are constant current supplies, not constant voltage.

-BR

Reply to
Brewster

Reply to
woodchucker

No costcos around here. They are building one in Flemington, but thats been 2 years because of issues they needed to mitigate.

Reply to
woodchucker

$2 each

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00 IN STOCK 244 Highway 202, Flemington, NJ 8822 | (908)782-2577 39 IN STOCK 1209 Us Highway 22, Phillipsburg, NJ 8865 | (908)213-0403 73 IN STOCK 2045 State Route 57, Hackettstown, NJ 7840 | (908)684-1822 232 IN STOCK 3926 Nazareth Pike, Bethlehem, PA 18020 | (610)882-0252 202 IN STOCK 400 Promenade Blvd, Bridgewater, NJ 8807 | (732)469-5883 284 IN STOCK 4095 Us Hwy 1, Monmouth Junction, NJ 8852 | (732)438-5980
Reply to
Spalted Walt

Looks like New Jersey isn't doing the same kind of subsidies as CT, but HD is listing Phillips 60s at $3.97 for soft white and a buck more for daylight. Bridgewater has 3-packs of GE for 10.97 and 8-packs for

24.97. When you go in the store you may find additional products that are not listed on the Web site.

By the way, watch out for the word "eco" in the name or description-- there are now bulbs sold as "eco-incandescent" that seem to be conventional halogen bulbs in oversized outer enclosures that are being sold for LED prices.

Reply to
J. Clarke

They're installed in series like old-fashioned Christmas lights?!?!?!

Reply to
J. Clarke

Your home-depot-fu is stronger than mine.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Yea I saw that pburg had, I was going to stop in yesterday but forgot. Flemington had nothing but those eco's Everything else is not worth traveling for. if it's not convienent, its not worth it.

Reply to
woodchucker

I saw that the other day, luckily saw the incandesent label.. that was so ridiculous.

Reply to
woodchucker

I went to the nearby Costco yesterday to pick up some more LED Shop lights as I'd bought back in the late summer.

Feit brand, two "bulb" 4' plug in with pull switch. $29.99 each Feit #917972. This is about $27 cheaper than offered on Amazon Prime.

It's a great unit that really throws the light and is instant on to full brightness (as you'd expect) even in very cold weather.

When I bought them in the summer, the price was right around $37.

Reply to
Unquestionably Confused

Look at all the LED's on new 12 volt vehicles.

I wired my specialty flood lights in parallel and series, and if I remember properly they were both 6 volt based for the whole thing.

It has been a few years since I made the stuff. I know that they make a nice explosion per bulb if improperly wired, just don't be near the bulb/emitter.

Reply to
OFWW

Sorry, My bad, I was thinking along the lines of motor related problems. Voltage decreases causes amperage to go up. Plus I was thinking A/C Not DC.

That said, any bad resistance connection in a J-box, circuit breaker or anywhere. If they show signs of heat then that is a load generated that the power meter reads. In some cases a minute load, yet its a load.

A poor connection before an incandescent will lower the light and the wattage consumed by the lamp. (as you said)

I should rewrite the stuff below, but I am going to snip it instead. If it was understood in light of what I just wrote it would be correct.

Reply to
OFWW

Yep, this keep the current constant through the string. If they were wired in parallel (with a constant voltage supply), the LEDs would need to be matched in both brightness and temperature/voltage coefficient otherwise they would all vary a tad in brightness.

There are multi-channel supplies that allow parallel operation, except in reality they can be considered as multiple power supplies inside the same box (pair of wires to each fixture).

LEDs are fickle devices, but when properly treated, the chances of a dead LED in a string is rather 'dim'. There are tricks that allow a remote supply to feed each fixture in parallel where the fixture has the final current regulation inside. This puts the majority of the heat sensitive parts far away, but some efficiency is lost.

-BR

-BR

Reply to
Brewster

Nothing quite like an expensive LED letting it's smoke out...

Cheaper LED lights that only require a fixed voltage often have small resistors to regulate (actually limit is more correct) the current. These are pure energy efficiency losses.

Of course consideration must be given to having an LED power supply 'system' running at only 80% efficiency compared with the efficiency of what you are replacing. If peak efficiency is not a big deal, then fixed voltage lamps are certainly a good option.

-BR

Reply to
Brewster

Sams and Wallmart have them also. They tend to stay out of each region unless it is a large metro areas.

I had a l> >> Just went to HD tonight. While there I looked at the LED value packs.

Reply to
Martin Eastburn

One could argue the same about incandescent bulbs but in reality it's not a problem with them. It also hasn't been a problem for me with screw-in LEDs.

Reply to
J. Clarke

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