So you use screws to splice three wires together? That's downright scary.
As for your gas tight crimps, those things are so dependent on your
calibrated tool that they ought to be outlawed. Talk about a fire hazard.
Oh, and your beer sucks.
Lew? I didn't realize you were the OP. Anyway, here's a specific
example, tell me what you would use in the place of wire nuts:
Ceiling junction box with light fixture attached, power coming directly
to the that box, with a switch loop going to a wall mounted switch.
Using regular NM (Romex) cabling.
How would you connect the line neutral to the light fixture
neutral,the line hot to the switch loop, and the return from the
switch loop to the light fixture hot conductor?
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - email@example.com
> Lew? I didn't realize you were the OP. Anyway, here's a specific
> example, tell me what you would use in the place of wire nuts:
> Ceiling junction box with light fixture attached, power coming directly
> to the that box, with a switch loop going to a wall mounted switch.
> Using regular NM (Romex) cabling.
> How would you connect the line neutral to the light fixture
> neutral,the line hot to the switch loop, and the return from the
> switch loop to the light fixture hot conductor?
What you are describing is the classic application for which the wirenut
was designed to solve.
Namely, the joining of a solid conductor (Romex) and a stranded pigtail
(the lighting fixture).
It is not a particularly good long term connection; however, there are
some conditions in this application that minimize future problems.
1) There is very little chance of vibration impacting the wirenut
2) The load is probably 600 watts or less so long term heat build up as
a result of a high resistance connection is minimized.
About the only possible alternate to a wirenut that is economically
viable would be a butt splice connector which would be totally dependent
on being able to make a proper mechanical crimp on a solid conductor,
something I'm not qualified to comment on, but would refer to the splice
Solder and shrink tubing are considered less safe than wire nuts for power
wiring because they will both fail at relatively low elevated temperatures.
A wire nut will continue to hold the wires tightly together until the wires
get so hot that the insulation burns off of them. Wire nuts have been used
safely and successfully in the electrical industry for over 75 years. The
only place that I would not use them is in high vibration areas of machinery
as they will shake loose over time. Split nuts or crimped on ring lugs that
are bolted together and then heavily insulated with rubber tape followed by
a layer of plastic tape is the solution for these locations such as motor
connections, etc. Solder and shrink tubing is great for low current control
circuits, but not for power.
"Lew Hodgett" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
The insulation will burn off long before they get hot enough to melt solder,
The shrink tubing would be a Code violation unless it's specifically listed
for use at the voltage and amperage of the circuit involved.
Apparently not in the UK :-)
The National Electrical Code permits soldered joints, but requires them to be
both mechanically and electrically secure *without* the solder. Nothing wrong
with using solder in power wiring -- it just can't be the *only* thing holding
the junction together.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
solder helps with the movement of DC power thru the wires. It actually
can hinder the movement of AC since AC moves on the surface of the wire.
If you do a good job with the wire nut (I highly recommend use of wire
nuts to join wires running AC power) then solder is not recommended in
any way. The use of Solder pre-dates the creation of wire nuts. I
typically find it in high end houses from the late 1930's to the early
Normally because it is a dissimilar metal to the wire itself, there is
corrosion in the joint where it is used, when we take the joints apart.
I just refreshed what I used to know about skin effect by reading the
wikipedia article about it (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect). The
executive summary is that for 60Hz, current flows in the outer 8mm of a
conductor. This means that for a solid wire anything less than 16mm
diameter (a bit heavier than 6/0 AWG), skin effect can be ignored. It's
certainly a total non-issue for the sizes of wire likely to be found in
DC also moves on surface of the wire because the free electrons
all reside on the surface of a conductor. Solder can help by making
that surface continuous all around the circuit.
DC cannot 'jump' across a gap unless it arcs. AC can, which is
why 'blocking' capacitors prevent DC from flowing around an
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