That's clearly nonsense -- 240 is far more dangerous than 120, both in its potential (pardon the pun) to electrocute, and to arc. The claim of reduced heating in the conductors is likewise nonsense: in a properly sized circuit, with proper overcurrent protection, heating in the conductors is insignificant regardless of voltage (i.e. if the conductors are getting hot, it's because they're too small for the load imposed).
So there is an equivalent to a wirenut is there? I'm having great difficulty thinking of anything else that could "perform" a similar "function" and be so badly engineered for the task in hand.
Google images "wire nut" and "wirenut" brings up quite a good selection.
Fortunately I reside in the true land of the free where higher standards are used in electrical installations. Basically just about everywhere other than the USA.
Fortunately I'm not bound by "The National Electrical Code"
So I use either proper screw terminals usually fitted with a rising leaf spring or preferably gas tight crimps, crimped with an approved, calibrated crimp tool and then protected with adhesive lined, low smoke and fume, zero halogen heat shrink This latter method in particular quickly gives a guaranteed low impedance connection that will last decades. i.e. the professional way to do it, not the bodgit and scarper method espoused by "The National Electrical Code"
Wasn't it Michael Faraday that called the USA "The land of the free and home of the smoldering wirenut?"
Please post a link to one of those images in which there was a fire caused by wirenuts. The only images I find that are at all relevant show burnt wirenuts due to improper use with aluminum wire in violation of code, and in none of them was there any indication of a structure fire. Now admittedly I did not take the time to examine more than the first ten pages or so of images.
The question was not where you reside, the question was what you use in lieu of wire nuts. So what do you use? Or don't you know?
Lew? I didn't realize you were the OP. Anyway, here's a specific example, tell me what you would use in the place of wire nuts:
Ceiling junction box with light fixture attached, power coming directly to the that box, with a switch loop going to a wall mounted switch. Using regular NM (Romex) cabling.
How would you connect the line neutral to the light fixture neutral,the line hot to the switch loop, and the return from the switch loop to the light fixture hot conductor?
Tim Douglass wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
is controlled by the amount of resistance on the circuit, with the most basic factor controlling resistance being the size of the wire. If we shrink the wire two things happen; first, less power gets through, and second, the wire heats up at that point.
You wrote this? This is really a 'dumbed down' start. I stopped reading after the above. I'm sure you are experienced with electricity and understand home wiring very well, but your explanation of it needs work. No offense meant. Hank
What you are describing is the classic application for which the wirenut was designed to solve.
Namely, the joining of a solid conductor (Romex) and a stranded pigtail (the lighting fixture).
It is not a particularly good long term connection; however, there are some conditions in this application that minimize future problems.
1) There is very little chance of vibration impacting the wirenut termination.
2) The load is probably 600 watts or less so long term heat build up as a result of a high resistance connection is minimized.
About the only possible alternate to a wirenut that is economically viable would be a butt splice connector which would be totally dependent on being able to make a proper mechanical crimp on a solid conductor, something I'm not qualified to comment on, but would refer to the splice manufacturer.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.