Maybe you should be using the plural: "budgets".
According to Tim, this is a common problem that the framer deals with often enough that he's looking for a faster way to cut studs of varying lengths.
Hard to believe that "budgets" are the issue here, unless "doing it right" in these "remote locations" is ridiculously expensive for just about everyo ne.
How warm is it inside? Is is a gas furnace with the pilot light burning? Sometimes that's enough to trip the thermal switch to turn the blower on. If so, turn the pilot off and relight it in the fall.
Wow...
With nearly fifty years in the trades, 3 1/2 years of owning a company that did nothing but framing (not to mention decades of doing it as part of my work) and several years of concrete pouring (from form setting to finishing ) I don't think I could have imagined more wrong headed and incorrect infor mation being distributed, or less being known about how the construction in dustry works.
No care, conern, or regards for building codes. If there are no local buil ding codes, there will be county. If no county, state. If loose state re gs, the reference will be SSBC. Those are likely in place anyway. Then if the house is financed, it will be built in compliance with VA, FHA or Conv entional loan standards. I did many, many, many inspections for FHA and Co nventional loan lenders (Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac)and each has their own req uirements.
They are stringent in conformity all applicable codes and building procedur es.
The first question that should have been asked is "are you building this fo r yourself with your own funds, and do you have the proper permits". If no t, the rest of the conversation is pretty much irrelevant.
Robert
So carry a generator and rip saw Makita 5143r has a 6 inch cut
The thing is, contrary to your experience, there are places where nobody much cares about permits and codes.
If it's permafrost, it shouldn't he heaving. If it is, what's going to stop it when the structure is on top of it? Bottom line, if it's heaving the foundation isn't far enough down.
The age old question: "Why is there ALWAYS enough money inthe budget to do the job again, but never enough to do it right?"
On unstable permafrost a building on a closed foundation has a lifespan of approxemately 3 years - and it will be out of square in about 3 months.
Permafrost will melt under a closed foundation, or under a building with inadequate thermal break His problem is not permafrost - and he's starting to sound like a certain "engineer" who repairs,balances and installs his own tires, aligns his own front ends and tries to buy brake shoes and pads based on their friction ratings only. The one who asks all the STUPID questions then argues with every answer - - - -
Everyone THAT far out owns and knows how to use a chainsaw.
Drop a pine, spruce, or cedar and rip a timber to fit
Then there are 6 day old pedestrian bridges that fall - designed by engineers and built by "experts".
Just saying,there is no excuse for a crooked foundation, and no reason NOT to correct the foundation before building on top of it.
Again, the old question - "Why is there always enough money (inthe budget) to do it twice, but never enough to do it right?"
If it's a heated structure.
More like one who asks questions that aren't completely specified, then calls those who are trying to help, stupid. That's the Usenet.
And there are lawyers who won't be far behind.
Or building inspectors.
A trick question, right? It's a physical property of the universe. To do otherwise might endanger all of humanity. It's just not natural!
That said, I built a garage thirty years ago. The mason did a great job securing and rebuilding the brick on the front of the house but totally f'd up the footings for the garage. They weren't level or square. The floor came out reasonably close to design but it didn't look like it. ;-)
Sometimes there's not enough to do it twice either, you just live with the bad result until it breaks badly enough that you can't patch it, then you decide whether you want to do it over or give it up as a bad job.
This is starting to sound like a Troll.
Solution presented -- Yes, but...
Another solution presented -- Yes, but...
The guy wants to use a Chop Saw with a Laser Rangefinder and he stated three questions: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Questions:
1) Do distance finders allow offsets like that to be dialed in? 2) Is there a better/faster/smarter way to do this? 3) Is there already a tooling system for just this problem? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~It appears that any answer to question 2 is invalid unless it addresses the Chop Saw and a laser rangefinder.
Seems that way, huh? I'd have the trusses up by now. :-)
even if it is NOT heated, as it will attract solar heat
for yourself with your own funds, and do you have the proper permits". If not, the rest of the conversation is pretty much irrelevant.
Understand. But try to get a final for closing on a loan if all permits ar e not in order. Regardless of how backwards, illiterate, ignorant and stup id some of the idiots are in the outlying areas around our city where I hav e worked, if funding is involved (other than from their BIL) there are stan dards that have to be met.
That includes and applies to all repairs and reworks needed to get poor wor k up to some kind of standard. Fanciful flights of woodworking imagination are not allowed. I have built houses out in the country and hated every d ay or working with "good old boys" and "sombitches that been doin' this shi t since they wuz kids" and all the other well practiced baloney. I have go ne out to other houses where the banks wouldn't accept the work done by tho se same glorified handymen just to get them up to acceptability.
As far as accepting a slab that is off "several inches", I can't even fatho m that. Industry standard is 1/4", in a certain amount of areas, not one, not several. I understand forms blow out, steel gets shifted, finishers do n't get it perfect, etc. But several inches? Not a chance.
Robert
I wish I were there to provide you all with more specifics, but I am not. I am far, far, far away.
For the record, if it were me, I'd demand a level foundation *if I could*. But it may be the case that he's working on an old foundation - either a full rebuild or a remodel of some kind - where the foundation is what it is and has been for 60 years. I know the general area where he is working and I know that there are a lot of old "government buildings" people have converted for other use over the years.
I don't doubt that. However, your solution seems too low-tech, simple, and quick. You are exhibiting the ways of a Pro - they look for a simple and elegant solution - implement it, and get the job done and move on. Meanwhile the amateur will futz around and waste days trying to find a workable solution much harder than it needs to be. Moreover, the more difficult, the more high-tech and closer to impossible the solution is - the better. I have fallen victim to that in the past.
If money is no object I'm sure that there several companies that would be happy to design and build him a long table Chop Saw positioning system with an accuracy of 1/32", or better.
If you don't pay until you are happy you could demand level. This is assuming the Pro in charge has some kind of contract. If he does not, is this job his firs Pro job?
But it may be the case that he's working on an old foundation - either a full rebuild or a remodel of some kind - where the foundation is what it is and has been for 60 years.
In your opening comments did you not say,
I have a use case where I want to build a wall on new construction.
Now it might be 60 years old???
Yeah, in retrospect, I should not have said that, because I do not actually know what the case is. I *think* it is new, but at least in some cases, it may not be. My bad.
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