Bosch oscillating tool review

Well said, and very true. Every manufacturing company whether it is refrig erators or skateboards lives on "innovation", real or perceived. "Innovati on" brings the latest and greatest item to the market, and brings a reason to purchase to the consumer.

To me, that is what is going on now with the "Starlock" system with the bot tle cap blades and accessories. They claim that the new system transfers X X% more power from the motor to the tool head, and that it prevents blade s lippage and possible operator injury. I think it is collusion that the two best manufacturers have come up with a new configuration for tools that wi ll a new standard whether we want it or not.

Since I have never seen (I take J. Clarke's word on his experience with his )a lugged Fein or Bosch that had blade slippage. Neither of my 8 lug HF mo dels have any, and I certainly wouldn't hold them up to any high standard o f manufacturing tolerances.

There may be some marginal improvement with the new blade configuration, bu t I think at best this was a solution that was looking for a problem.

Robert

Reminds me of the convoluted formula Sears would compute the HP ratings on their electric motors.

Dave in SoTex

Leon wrote in news:Mq2dnVuG0MnhllbFnZ2dnUU7- snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Is it a separate piece if it's soldered onto a board? I've got like a

(Yeah, it's a stretch to count the transistors that go into making up the components. Next thing you know, Avagadro's number will be involved. X*

Puckdropper

So after much thought I am ready to buy the Bosch. My question: tail or no tail?

Thanks,

Mike

I recommend the tail-less. I had a Dremel tailed twitcher before I bought the Bosch tail-less. I haven't used the Dremel since.

I would ask the question, are you likely going to use the tool enough to wear it out in the next 5-6 years. If not I would suggest getting the tailed one. Manufacturers are notorious for changing battery design and you may end up with a tool that you may not be able to find replacement batteries for. And i have not see a battery rebuild place that rebuilds Lithium Ion.

Corded will likely out last a battery powered. For me personally the only cordless tools that I buy, then I have the option, are drills.

I would have reversed that completely. If you're using it so much that you'll wear it out in a short time, buy a Fein or green, tailed tool. You'll probably kill a lot batteries in this time. I've had my Bosch for close to ten years (probably eight) and they're still making the same batteries. OTOH, it's provably time they change. ;-)

I like cordless tools that I don't use for hours at a time. For quick jobs, you can't beat cordless. They're also better for tools you may be using at odd angles (drills, and small saws).

All of your flashlights have power cords? ;-)

Same here. I have tried a cordless circular saw, but I prefer constant and full power. But I am wondering if people most often prefer the mobility of a drill when they use their oscillating tool.

Mike

Drill aside, the decision maker for me is where you use it. I don't use the oscillating tool that often and when I do, it is 90% in the shop,

If I was often using it a job sites I'd go battery.

and full power. But I am wondering if people most often prefer the mobility of a drill when they use their oscillating tool.

My first use is to help me take out the OSB from under the linoleum in the bathroom before I install 3/4 plywood, backer board, and tile. After much c onsultation,I've decided not to take out the vanity and to install tile aro und it. I'd be curious what others think about that. That vanity is in ther e pretty good.

Next I'm going to take out the carpet and OSB in the front room and install 3/4 plywood, backer board, and tile. I assume the oscillating tool will be very helpful there as well.

After that, I'm assuming it will come in handy in many other ways.

So I'm really torn between tail/no tail.

Mike

Michael wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Go with the tailed version and get your projects done. You can always buy a untailed version later, when you find one for a good price.

Btw, oscillating tools tend to be much slower than circular saws. It's just their nature. Trying to cut an 8' board that usually takes a minute or two with a circular saw will take an hour or better with the oscillating saw, even with good technique. Just want to keep your expectations in line.

Puckdropper

YES! the oscillating tool is not a replacement of a jig saw or circular saw. It simply gets into tight areas that would other wise be almost impossible to access. But it does this with sanding and grout removing capabilities also. I use mine a lot to flush cut through Domino's that reinforce my drawer joints.

Yes, there's no way I'd use it to cut 8 feet plywood sheets. I'll need it t o cut the OSB that's flush to the cabinets and walls. I'll also use it to s crap linoleum where I need to. I'm also picturing using it to clear out tig ht areas so I can fit in the plywood and backer board.

Mike

I'd never do it. I remove cabinets and tile under them, as well.

Absolutely, but you never know what part of the job will be such a PITA that you'll thank yourself for having it handy. ;-)

I don't use mine all that often but when it's needed, nothing else comes close.

Nothing wrong with that. No need to create extra work by removing and reinstalling the same vanity just so you can say you tiled under it.

Is there a reason you're taking out the OSB? If it's sound, there's no reason to. As for backer board, you may want to look into Schluter products. It's now carried at most home Depots.

Front room? Is this a living room or part of the bathroom. There's no need for cement board under tile that won't be subjected to constant moisture. All you need is to decouple the mortar from the wood subfloor. That can be done old-school with simple tar-paper, or using more modern sheet products.

-MIKE- wrote in news:od1euj$3kv$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

It sure wouldn't hurt to buy a couple extra boxes of tile and store them somewhere safe. That way, if you need to get a new vanity with a different foot print you'll have the tile available to fill in the gaps.

Puckdropper

Mike,

I've asked the tile store people and others about using OSB and a backer bo ard. They all insisted that I take out the OSB and put in 3/4 plywood. I wo uld prefer to put cement board over the OSB, of course, but if it will prev ent failure, then I'll replace the OSB.

The front room is the living room. It's currently has carpet over OSB. I ha d plan to take out the OSB and replace it with plywood and backer board, th en tile. Again, that's because I'm told that's how to do it.

Thanks,

Mike

First, I am in the camp of using a tailed tool. BUT, I use mine on a job s ite and I cut and scrape a lot of stuff with it. When I go the Bosch menti oned in my mini review, I immediately used it to cut the bottoms off old, h ard, 2x6s, hard pieces of yellow pine trim, baseboards, etc. I also used i t for all manner of cutting for work inside a kitchen rehab. I get pissed off if I pick up a tool and it doesn't work at 100% capacity all the time. And since none of my crew guys own an oscillator, if it needs to charge tha t could mean down time. I have battery powered tools I use in the job (cir cular saw, recip saw, drills, hammer drills, etc.), but an oscillator isn't one of them.

These are not saws. While they will saw, it is only one aspect of what the y do. You should always use the right tool to do the job no matter what, a nd these are not made for continually sawing boards, plywood, etc. They ar e dandy trimmers, will plunge cut where your circular saw will not, can be used as "jamb saws", cabinet installation saws, etc. But these are not mad e for heavy duty sawing, sawing in straight lines, or any kind of large pro ject work requiring a lot wood cutting.

I do like my corded drills and haven't carried a tailed drill in years and years. Today's battery powered tools certainly have their place, and for l ight work like a small repair I have a battery powered set I take with me a nd don't break out anything corded.

board. They all insisted that I take out the OSB and put in 3/4 plywood. I would prefer to put cement board over the OSB, of course, but if it will pr event failure, then I'll replace the OSB.

You need to replace the OSB. No doubt about it, your tile source is steeri ng your right. 1) OSB has open ended strands that will attract moisture, a nd in a horizontal installation, this can cause delamination of the strand structure. Tile is usually mopped clean at least once in a while and the w ater will go into the tiny little micro cracks that you won't notice in you r grout lines. The cracks are created from flexing of the substrate, failu re of the grout to adhere PERFECTLY to the tile, movement of the foundation , and if on wood screeds, weather changes. 2) OSB will flex over time in he avy traffic. I have pulled up old carpet laid over OSB subfloor and you ca n see the grain is raised under the pathways to bathrooms, bedrooms, etc.fr om tiny bits of flexing every time someone walks on it. So it does delamin ate some, regardless of any manufacturer's claims. Delamination causes the adhesive bonds to break, then the tiles move, the grout joint fails, etc. as above.

had plan to take out the OSB and replace it with plywood and backer board, then tile. Again, that's because I'm told that's how to do it.

Make sure that you are installing the correct backer board. The backer tha t you have at your local big box may be for vertical use only, NOT to be us ed for foot traffic. Make sure you are getting the correct stuff, don't rel y on the HD or Lowe's guys; go to a real tile outlet and if possible, talk to an installer.

I found this on the net, and when we put in tile flooring, this is procedur e we follow:

(( 5 steps to a sound ceramic floor ))

We have one more thing that I insist on personally, and that is before adhe ring the cement board (foot traffic, horizontal grade) to the plywood, I sp ray the plywood with a coating of PVC primer to close up the pores a bit on the plywood to make sure the adhesive gets a good bite. Plywood will draw out the moisture in the adhesive too quickly in some cases and will give a less than satisfactory bond. Besides... the latex primer is cheap, cheap insurance.

I advise my clients that when laying tile over this configuration that thei r grout joints should not be more than 1/2". regardless of prep. Remember, grout is not a structural component, and the only function of the grout is to keep stuff from getting in between and under the tiles. Wide grout joi nts on a wood floor will definitely let go and separate from the tiles.

Good luck on your project. Once you get it going, it won't be too bad if yo u follow the right steps. And if you follow them closely, your work will l ast as long as the tile does. With that in mind, don't buy cheap tile! Ma ke sure you buy something that has a PEI rating or 3 or above so it will st and the wear and tear of furniture, kids, coffee tables, cleaning, etc.

Hope you come back here and start a new thread and let all know you are doi ng with this! We all love work in progress threads.

Robert

And there you have it. The final word. :~) Thank you Robert!