DO NOT sand sheetrock with an electric sander. They draw cooling air through the sander, and with it dust, which is powdered rock. It will destroy your bearings, quickly. Air powered is not so bad, as the air is not pulled through it. DAMHIKT.
The OP is not sanding newly taped sheetrock, but is sanding sheetrock from which wallpaper has been removed. The removal process usually leaves glue residue and bits of crap on the surface. That is what the OP is sanding, not the mud seams. Regards, Hank
Mark, I don't know what you ran into or what the paint guy tols you wrong, but this is what I do. Having done this several times myself. Remove the wallpaper then wash down the walls with a wet sponge to remove as much of the old glue as you can. Then fill in any nicks, nail holes or bad joints with joint compound thinned with water until you have a soft butter consistency. Sand your patched areas smooth then apply a primer over the whole wall. Any old glue still on the wall will leave a rough spot you can feel with your hands. After the primer has set up good you can lightly hit the rough spots with a mesh 220 grit sand paper and smooth those areas up. Then reprime and paint.
I once used a palm sander and came out of a closed room looking like a ghost as I was completely covered by dust. My suggestion >>> DO NOT use a power tool to do drywall sanding!
If you use a powered tool to sand the drywall , you will have small particles blown all over the place. NOTE>>> I am assuming that there are repairs that have been done as well... Either way, if there is any repairs that have been done or there are seams that have been done, there will be the capability to get lots of dried drywall mud converted into dust.
The best tool I have found is something that looks like a sanding block but with material that looks like the stuff from your screen door on it. It scrapes well, and does not blow the drywall dust everywhere... It just sort of falls straight down. There may be better ways but this is the one I found at the BORG. It is also under ten dollars! Wear a dust mask and safety glasses as the dust is rather invasive...
I bought one of these that had a dust collector port. I hooked it up to my little shop vac and it caught most of the dust. Of course, one should still wear goggles and a mask. Oh, and ear plugs, my little Genie shop vac makes a big vac noise.
BAD advice, as usual. Only a person with experience and skill can lay a thick enough skim coat on a surface with raised bits of wallpaper, glue, nubbits of texture, or whatever, without leaving more of a mess than he started with. Where there once was a nubbit, there will be a long ridge. The float will pick up detritus from the wall, and redistribute it, probably contaminating the bucket of mud in the process.
I have been restoring plaster and sheetrock walls for many years, and I don't touch the mud bucket until the walls are free of debris and nubs. Anything else is just making more work.
No worries about my ceiling; I can stand on the floor and scrape it -- 7.5 feet :-(
Sadly, though, this is the wall. Skim coat is out, we're not talking a little texture here, we're talking stuff that sticks out 1/4" in places! You've seen the ice cream ad on TV where guests are afraid of the wall -- that's our place. I was hoping to avoid the wrecking bar and new rock, but, alas :-(
This is a small palm sander and it has holes on the face fro teh dust to go elsewhere, but no apcific spot for a vaccum attachment. OTOH, I don't have a shop let alone a shop vac... sigh... All my work gets done in the downstairs suite in the kitchen. sucks to be me! I don't have room for any more tools than I have and here I am going to the Wood Hobby show tomorrow and Sunday!
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