You've gotten some good inputs on sanding, but are you sure
(especially if the paint store has already given you wrong
directions once) that you should be sanding? You may want
to describe your situation more, and get additional advice.
FWIW, when I took wallpaper off, I skim-coated the entire
wall with joint compound, then sanded & painted, to cover
damage to the paper surface of the drywall.
Are they telling you to sand the wallpaper glue down? That doesn't sound
like it will work very well. The glue just doesn't sand that well, and
you really don't want to sand the drywall itself at all. You'll get
fuzzies that no amount of subsequent sanding will remove.
Do you want a texture or a smooth wall? For a smooth wall, I'd put on a
thin coat (called a "putty coat") of mud and sand it smooth. A couple
hours max applying the putty coat, with an hour or less sanding the next
morning. For a textured wall, it's even easier, since the texture will
help hide any residual glue. Just apply the mud in the desired pattern,
and again, sand in the morning.
Im not sure what exactly you are sanding. Is it remains of
wallpaper backing? Are you sanding existing paint off ? or
is it just wallpaper paste remains?
In any event, you are looking at sanding a large surface
area of crap that loves to clog sandpaper, especially when
it heats up under the electric sander.
My experience with this type of stuff is to use a fairly
coarse grit (40 -60) to tear the stuff off, (if it is
backing) and then re sand with fine grit. If you are sanding
stuff that doesnt clog (like well hardened paint) then a
finer grit say 100-120 would do. The orbital sanders are the
best. The bigger the amperage and pad the better for large
areas. For tabletops etc, a smaller orbital is best. I have
a 5 in makita that was only $100 and have been using it for
years. I really like it, and have dropped it many times
without any damage. The Dewalt ones are pretty good too.
I had some heavy backing from a vinyl floor to remove from
my kitchen . I have a pneumatic "bondo buster" with 40 grit
paper that ripped that stuff off in a few hours. The
electric orbital was useless for this. It just depends what
exactly you are sanding maybe you need to rent something.
Drywall is not normally sanded with electric sanders because
the filler is really easy to sand.
Hope this helps.
On Wed, 15 Oct 2003 07:29:52 -0400, "Mark Driscol"
To e-mail me, remove all of the sevens from my address.
DO NOT sand sheetrock with an electric sander. They draw cooling air
through the sander, and with it dust, which is powdered rock. It will
destroy your bearings, quickly. Air powered is not so bad, as the air is
not pulled through it. DAMHIKT.
Let's back up. Can you please describe the problem you are trying to
fix? If you have just removed wall paper and the wall is uneven you do
not want to sand dry wall. Sanding the drywall will damage it. ONe would
only sand joint compound once applied to the joints and nail/screw
holes. If your walls are uneven you want to apply a skim coat. Basically
a thined down jiont compound that is painted on.
I don't know what you ran into or what the paint guy tols you wrong,
but this is what I do.
Having done this several times myself. Remove the wallpaper then wash
down the walls with a wet sponge to remove as much of the old glue as
you can. Then fill in any nicks, nail holes or bad joints with joint
compound thinned with water until you have a soft butter consistency.
Sand your patched areas smooth then apply a primer over the whole
wall. Any old glue still on the wall will leave a rough spot you can
feel with your hands. After the primer has set up good you can lightly
hit the rough spots with a mesh 220 grit sand paper and smooth those
areas up. Then reprime and paint.
I once used a palm sander and came out of a closed room looking like a
ghost as I was completely covered by dust. My suggestion >>> DO NOT
use a power tool to do drywall sanding!
If you use a powered tool to sand the drywall , you will have small
particles blown all over the place. NOTE>>> I am assuming that there
are repairs that have been done as well... Either way, if there is any
repairs that have been done or there are seams that have been done,
there will be the capability to get lots of dried drywall mud
converted into dust.
The best tool I have found is something that looks like a sanding
block but with material that looks like the stuff from your screen
door on it. It scrapes well, and does not blow the drywall dust
everywhere... It just sort of falls straight down. There may be
better ways but this is the one I found at the BORG. <Home Depot>
It is also under ten dollars! Wear a dust mask and safety glasses as
the dust is rather invasive...
This is a small palm sander and it has holes on the face fro teh dust
to go elsewhere, but no apcific spot for a vaccum attachment. OTOH, I
don't have a shop let alone a shop vac... sigh...
All my work gets done in the downstairs suite in the kitchen. sucks
to be me! I don't have room for any more tools than I have and here I
am going to the Wood Hobby show tomorrow and Sunday! <grin>
I bought one of these that had a dust collector port. I hooked it up to my
little shop vac and it caught most of the dust. Of course, one should still
wear goggles and a mask. Oh, and ear plugs, my little Genie shop vac makes
a big vac noise.
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