After stripping wallpaper from our bathroom, the paint store gave us some
incorrect advise on how to prep the walls for painting. As part of the
correction to get it right this time, they now advise us to sand the drywall
in the bathroom.
What is the best way to do this? My wife would like to get a sander she
could use for other things as well, like sanding tabletops for resurfacing.
Should we get a random orbital sander or some other kind? Would this be
good for drywall as well? What brands/models/features would be good? Going
to the home improvement stores there are many choices, and we're novices at
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Hand sanding is really the only way to go since drywall mud requires such a
light touch. Seriously, this is how the pros do it. Get yourself a drywall
sander and a pole to put it on and some fine sanding screen and hit it very
lightly otherwise you'll be taking the mud off and the paper will show
through. Probably cost about twenty bucks. You might even have enough left
over to get the wife a sander.
A sponge and warm water will work great for this, just if it's wallpaper
just wet it down and wait until it softens up, if it's joint compound it
will sand quickly as you rub it is a circular motion. I use the 9" x 4 3/4 x
1 1/2 size sponge.
Drywall is basically big plaster sheets with a thin paper coating, and more
plaster (i.e. joint compound, aka "mud") applied in and over the joints
between the big sheets. So, as others have already said, you want a light
touch, otherwise you'll go right through the paper coating and in to the
plaster. My guess is that what the paint store is telling you to do is to
sand off any residual glue and bits left over from the wallpaper you
removed, and level out the surface before painting. I think a random
orbital sander might be too heavy-handed for this, although I admit I
haven't tried it myself. If you do go this route, I'd recommend getting a
smallish one, and starting out slowly on a small area to find out if you're
tearing up the drywall before going to town with it.
I recently discovered a shop-vac drywall sanding attachment. This thing is
great. It's basically just a rectangular plastic do-hickey(tm) that
attaches to the end of your shop vac hose. Over that, you attach an
abrasive sanding screen/mesh. You then hand sand with it, as you would
with sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. However, because it's
attached to your shop vac, you get virtually *no* dust. I was amazed at
how well it worked. My SWMBO was extremely paranoid about dust when I
drywalled her office, since she had had a contractor pretty much cover her
mom's house with dust while doing drywall years ago. She practically made
me move everything in our house in to storage and seal off the room before
she would let me sand the drywall joints on this one wall. =-) Well, there
was so little dust with this thing, that she was certain that I hadn't
actually sanded it, but used some sort of black magic to put the drywall up
with smooth joints in the first place. I didn't need to clean up any dust
after I was done, really, it worked that well. Highly recommended, at
least if you're sanding the joint compound.
(Later that day, while trying to empty the shop vac in to the trash, I
managed to knock it over, thus filling my workshop with the aforementioned
dust, but that's a whole 'nother story.) ;-)
Please remove "ziggzigg" from my e-mail address if replying by email.
I second that. I had a small job to do that was dust sensitive and bought
one. An added advantage is that the amount of suction you use, will control
how much pressure is applied to the wall.
I have used a ROS to sand drywall compound and it is overkill. need to
use slow speed and fine sandpaper or the paper on the drywall is gone in
flash. Drywall sanding screens are a big improvement over hand
sandpaper as they don't clog as easily and the job does go rather
quickly. If it is glue and wallpaper you are sanding down then a ROS
might be a little better but you still have to be very careful
drywall can be sanded (well actually the "mud") with a pole sander and
mesh. HOWEVER, IF you have a cool shop vac like a Fein, with a 1 micron
filter or HEPA filter option, then you can hook it up to a powered
sander like a 1/4 pad sander and get no cloud of dust in the room! I
did exactly that when finishing the walls of my shop. I first sanded
with a hand held pad; made on hell of a mess--huge clouds of dust. I
rigged up an adapter to my PC 1/4 pad sander so that I could use my Fein
vac. Voila! Sanding is easier, faster, and most importantly, DUST FREE.
Very little time and pressure is required to get a flat seam. You can
use either drywall sanding mesh, or drywall sandpaper. I like the mesh
for initial sanding--it is aggressive.
Mark Driscol wrote:
A VS ROS at a slow speed with 150 grit should do the trick, but I would
do it by hand (unless I could borrow the PC wall sander from someone).
Be very careful to sand only to smoothness. If you oversand, the problem
isn't that you will sand through the paper layer, but you will make the
paper fuzzy. Paint WILL NOT hide this fuzz.
The OP is not sanding newly taped sheetrock, but is sanding sheetrock
from which wallpaper has been removed. The removal process usually
leaves glue residue and bits of crap on the surface. That is what the OP
is sanding, not the mud seams.
BAD advice, as usual. Only a person with experience and skill can
lay a thick enough skim coat on a surface with raised bits of wallpaper,
glue, nubbits of texture, or whatever, without leaving more of a mess than
he started with. Where there once was a nubbit, there will be a long
ridge. The float will pick up detritus from the wall, and redistribute it,
probably contaminating the bucket of mud in the process.
I have been restoring plaster and sheetrock walls for many years, and
I don't touch the mud bucket until the walls are free of debris and nubs.
Anything else is just making more work.
Sorry Dave, I was wrong about what the OP did to the wall. Seems like he
primed it. How to fix? Don't know without seeing it, but a skim coat
would be a bitch without a smooth surface to start with. Probably would
Ceiling popcorn, scrape with a wide knife and respackle.
Anything else is anyone's guess. I've had success skim-coating with
slightly thinned lightweight drywall compound. You might wanna try
painting over it and see if you don't mind the texture.
And if all else fails, a wrecking bar and new rock.
Ceiling popcorn is removed by spraying it with water, letting it soften,
and then scraping it with a scraper attached to a pole so you do it
standing on the floor instead of ladder (unless you've got impossibly
high ceilings, in which case, my condolences...)
Charles Krug wrote:
No worries about my ceiling; I can stand on the floor and scrape it -- 7.5
Sadly, though, this is the wall. Skim coat is out, we're not talking a
little texture here, we're talking stuff that sticks out 1/4" in places!
You've seen the ice cream ad on TV where guests are afraid of the wall --
that's our place. I was hoping to avoid the wrecking bar and new rock, but,
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