Assume the panel has been milled to final thickness, but in the middle
there's a little dip at one of the glue joints, leaving a 1/16" ridge
about a foot long. Wood is white oak. Ignoring sandpaper, what tool
would you use to even out the joint? I'm thinking of a cabinet scraper
or maybe just a smoothing plane. At work I just grab a Dynabrade with
some 100grit and feather it in, but I was wondering what the
Neanderthals would do...
I have learned that the cabinet scraper does not work good for me for this
type of job.
I use what I have control over it. In this case, subject to the type of
glue and its hardness, I use a 1" wide wood chisel at an angle of about 45
degree in forward motion. On some work I use a 2" wide wood chisel. The
other tool is a paint scraper with a pulling motion with the grain. I make
sure that my tool are well sharpen so I can cut through the glue ridge.
Using sand paper to remove glue will quickly filled the paper.
I would use an older chisel or a card scraper to chip off any glue,
then work on the ridge with a low angle block plane, and finish it off
with a scraper or (gasp) sandpaper.
(Who considers himself a novice neander, as he owns 7 planes, not
including scrapers or spokeshaves, and only 2 routers, including the
No neander, but on panel glue-ups for years I've used a four bladed, Hyde
10530, 1 1/2" 'paint scraper' as the go-to tool for glue removal/joint
leveling ... and a very handy tool to have around. Each blade has four
edges, which last a long time, and even take to sharpening when you don't
have a replacement handy.
Seems that you have two choices
1) it is really "milled to final thickness", and flatness is not
important as long as it is smooth. In that case, I'd use a block plane
with a very slightly cambered blade to get close, then use a card
scraper; I've not had good luck with cabinet scrapers, but maybe
that's just me.
2) you want a flat surface, and are willing to accept slightly less
thickness than you originally described as "final thickness". In that
case, I'd flatten with a jack plane taking relatively course shavings,
followed by a jointer plane set very fine.
If you need both flat and same thickness, ripping the joint and
regluing seems to be the only option.
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Too late now, but I like to glue up panels first, then run them through my
planer to the thickness I need. Perfect panels every time. Unfortunately,
that only works if my panel is less than 12" wide. :) Otherwise, I prepare
the panel in two halves and glue the halves together after planing. Follow
that up with sanding.
Thanks for the replies, all. This was a somewhat hypothetical
situation, although I do occasionally run into it! It's not uncommon
at work to glue up panels prior to face-jointing the boards, for
expediency, and then surface them after, as someone mentioned. If the
boards aren't hammered into close enough alignment in the rack, we
occasionally get an uneven glue joint even after taking them to final
thickness. If it's a full 16th, and it's not going to be sandblasted,
wire brushed or chalked up to "rustic" (we use reclaimed timber almost
exclusively) then we toss it. But usually they're much lighter than a
16th and we can just feather it in if needed. I have used a block
plane to do it in the past.
If you're not going shiny on the finish, don't work a block plane, work a
good flexible cabinet scraper _by hand_ and feather, as you said. You're
really only interested in the visual, and even a small smooth deviation will
fool the eye.
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