I don't know about everyone here, but I still don't see a realcomprehensive analysis in the magazines with the features important tome as to which router out there is really the best for a router table.Here are the criteria I think are important. I know I have missed afew, so I would be interested in other's enhancements.* Router should have a tabletop height adjuster built in. (Why pay thecost for a router lift today when so many have the feature. Some costmore than the router!!)* Router should have a good range for all bit types. (The routershould go down far enough for bits that just want to groove or need alot of range for their application and up far enough that they don'tneed a bit extension.) I have a Dewalt DW625 that used to be touted asa good router table router. It has a real problem with range and theability to go up high enough. I HAVE to have a bit extender whichamplifies the vibration. I also had to install a Router Raizer.* Here is something that I don't see mentioned: The ability to releasethe bit without turning 3 or 4 turns for the self release mechanism towork. (Mark Sommerfield uses a Hitachi M12V that I think has thatfeature)* A bent wrench to remove the bit from top of the table. I made onefor my MLCS extender. I don't know how you can work without one.* An accurate dial built in that allows you to make differentialadjustments from a given position.* A hole for the height adjuster that does not fill in with sawdustwithout having to cap the hole. (There can be a gap below the table toallow the release of sawdust)Has anyone used the new Milwaukee 3+ hp router with some of thesefeatures? How about the new Porter Cable (890 series?)

You're looking for the perfect tool; it does not exist.Some data on application (including the 5625) at the link.********************************************* wrote:table.release

Best modern Router table Router?

Feb 22, 2005 21 Replies

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Bruce 21 years ago

On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 22:26:36 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote (in article ):

It's not as bad as it sounds, just that if you are creeping up on a height for raised panels or something where a 0.005" difference will ruin it, the standard proceedure when you overshoot is to back off and approach the height again versus just backing off.

(Whew! long sentence!)

-Bruce

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Nate Perkins 21 years ago

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:_q0Td.61209$8a6.2718@trndny09:

Yep, unfortunately I just have the single router with the combo base ... so I pull out the motor when I use it with the plunge base.

I need to rebuild my router table and improve the dust collection. Right now the motor is under the table, and the area under the table is sealed. There is dust collection built into the fence, but any dust that gets down under the table just makes a mess (and gets into the switch).

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