I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...
Since you have 400 of them to do, why not install a non-ferrous metal cutting blade in the miter saw? These are usually available at any home center. You could also set up a stop block and measure once, cut 400 times.
For just a few, I'd probably use a tubing cutter or hacksaw.
I have my miter saw set in a bench that provides table top to each side. It is quite easy to rig a stop.
If it is round tube, you run the risk of part(s) spinning in the cut - not good - if you try to cut a bunch at once. I would try to get going with 2 at a time and develop a good rhythm. Won't take long. The biggest deal will be dealing with the finish pieces.
Good technique and blade should give you a clean, burrless cut.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net
I'd look for the right kind of blade for the miter saw and set up a jig for length. 400 pieces with a tubing cutter will make for very tired hands/wrists. I know they make carbide toothed blades for cutting non-ferrous metals, or use an abrasive blade.
Aluminum guys use a miter saw with a metal cutting blade ... no tape. I had them in my yard for a week putting up my screen cage so I got a good look at their tools.
I have been cutting small amounts of aluminium angle recently using my mitre saw. Use a non-ferrous blade (lots of teeth. It will make a *huge* mess so ensure you do it in an area that is easy to clean. Note that aluminium curlies stick to everything - shoes, wood, shop dog paws - everything.
For 400 cuts:
eye protection (fully enclosed) - definite hearing protection - definite assistant - highly desireable tape - unnecessary file to deburr if needed stop to ensure length of repeat cuts - essential
Technique: set stop cut test piece in place commence bulk cuts have assistant place tubing, you pull handle every so often ensure chips are clear of stop block so each cut isn't getting shorter. finish job cleanup (for days)
Lastly, shave your head, it's easier than getting aluminium curlies out of it one by one.
There are aluminum-cutting blades specifically made for the table saw or circular saw. I would use one of these if I had 400 pieces to cut. If you need to save some $ remember you can use the 7 1/4" blade in your table saw instead of paying for the 10", which you don't need to cut 3/4" thick tubing. If you use the table saw (as opposed to handheld circ. saw) clean all the sawdust out of it before you cut the tubing.
I would probably get a metal-cutting blade and put it in the miter saw. I suspect that you're starting off with longer tubing sections, which for me would be easier to deal with on the miter saw.
Good points mentioned already: stop block jig and 2 (or more?) at a time.
I forked over $50 for a Freud diablo non-ferrous blade for my CMS. I still didn't believe it would cut the aluminum picture frame moulding I needed to miter, but it did a fabulous job. Maybe it's overkill, but I suspect you would be happy with its performance. If it were me, I'd use a 10" abrasive disc for a chop saw ($5 or so) in a CMS, as the edges will remain hidden.
Notable idea: Maybe you could buff them with some metal polish or rouge before installing for a chrome type look.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.