best method to cut 3/4" aluminum tubing?

hi,

I am using 3/4" OD aluminum tubing as balusters for deck rails. I need to cut almost 400 of them to length. I was hoping for suggestions on the most efficient and painless way to do this. I have woodworking tools such as band saw, table saw, miter saws, jig saw, etc...

any advice appreciated...

thanks,

david greenville, sc

Reply to
david
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Personally, I prefer to use a tube cutter. Perfect cuts and quick and painless.

Kevin Daly

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Reply to
Kevin Daly

Since you have 400 of them to do, why not install a non-ferrous metal cutting blade in the miter saw? These are usually available at any home center. You could also set up a stop block and measure once, cut 400 times.

For just a few, I'd probably use a tubing cutter or hacksaw.

Barry

Reply to
B a r r y

I have my miter saw set in a bench that provides table top to each side. It is quite easy to rig a stop.

If it is round tube, you run the risk of part(s) spinning in the cut - not good - if you try to cut a bunch at once. I would try to get going with 2 at a time and develop a good rhythm. Won't take long. The biggest deal will be dealing with the finish pieces.

Good technique and blade should give you a clean, burrless cut.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

Reply to
DanG

I'd look for the right kind of blade for the miter saw and set up a jig for length. 400 pieces with a tubing cutter will make for very tired hands/wrists. I know they make carbide toothed blades for cutting non-ferrous metals, or use an abrasive blade.

Reply to
Norman D. Crow

Reply to
Phisherman

Reply to
items4sale

Aluminum guys use a miter saw with a metal cutting blade ... no tape. I had them in my yard for a week putting up my screen cage so I got a good look at their tools.

Reply to
Greg

Any carbide blade in your mitersaw will work. We just finnished up cutting

4X12 1/4inch plate with a circular saw with standard blade...Had to cut 11pcs....Brian
Reply to
Brian in Hampton

I have been cutting small amounts of aluminium angle recently using my mitre saw. Use a non-ferrous blade (lots of teeth. It will make a *huge* mess so ensure you do it in an area that is easy to clean. Note that aluminium curlies stick to everything - shoes, wood, shop dog paws - everything.

For 400 cuts:

eye protection (fully enclosed) - definite hearing protection - definite assistant - highly desireable tape - unnecessary file to deburr if needed stop to ensure length of repeat cuts - essential

Technique: set stop cut test piece in place commence bulk cuts have assistant place tubing, you pull handle every so often ensure chips are clear of stop block so each cut isn't getting shorter. finish job cleanup (for days)

Lastly, shave your head, it's easier than getting aluminium curlies out of it one by one.

Do While stockslast Drink beer. Loop

Reply to
Groggy

There are aluminum-cutting blades specifically made for the table saw or circular saw. I would use one of these if I had 400 pieces to cut. If you need to save some $ remember you can use the 7 1/4" blade in your table saw instead of paying for the 10", which you don't need to cut 3/4" thick tubing. If you use the table saw (as opposed to handheld circ. saw) clean all the sawdust out of it before you cut the tubing.

Reply to
Lawrence Wasserman

I would probably get a metal-cutting blade and put it in the miter saw. I suspect that you're starting off with longer tubing sections, which for me would be easier to deal with on the miter saw.

todd

Reply to
Todd Fatheree

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things look cute but are expensive; you should be able to find comparable products at a local retailer.

Reply to
Daniel

I would add a bit of wax to the blade to prevent build-up of aluminium on the teeth.

Dave

Reply to
TeamCasa

Good points mentioned already: stop block jig and 2 (or more?) at a time.

I forked over $50 for a Freud diablo non-ferrous blade for my CMS. I still didn't believe it would cut the aluminum picture frame moulding I needed to miter, but it did a fabulous job. Maybe it's overkill, but I suspect you would be happy with its performance. If it were me, I'd use a 10" abrasive disc for a chop saw ($5 or so) in a CMS, as the edges will remain hidden.

Notable idea: Maybe you could buff them with some metal polish or rouge before installing for a chrome type look.

Good luck!

Reply to
Sam Schmenk

Circular saw with carbide blade and a homemade cutting jig to give you repeatable lengths (easily made from 2x4s and a piece of plywood)

John

Reply to
John

And a full-face shield.

Just my opinion, guaranteed not to reflect the opinion of everyone.

jlc

Reply to
Joe C

Barry ...

Don't you mean "measure twice?"

Lee

Reply to
Lee Gordon

No. You measure the second time after you cut 400 too-short poles.

Where would the challenge be if you KNEW the parts were right the first time?

Barry

Reply to
B a r r y

With the right blade, I've never had burrs with a miter saw, even without tape.

Barry

Reply to
B a r r y

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