I have a disk sander (as well as belt sanders, and others) and I find
that I seldom use it. Seems like I alternate between needing coarse
grit for evening something out and fine for other uses. I HATE
changing the disk, and often cannot use it again because the glue
sticks to the metal instead of coming off with the sandpaper. It is
much easier to change a belt. Maybe I need several disk sanders with
different grits on them.
I'd be curious to know the shape of these push sticks. This as my initial
reaction was to use a jointer or a hand plane and/or spoke shave to smooth
them. Pretty much any outside curve can be handled with a plane and inside
curves with a spoke shave. Using these tools could turn out to be faster
than the rasp or sanding...
Thank you for that insight, John! It had not occurred to me to use a
plane or a spoke shave for the curves--and it was *never* going to occur
to me to use a plane that way!
I appreciate the lesson!
These are good points. Get a heavy belt sander and use it upside down when
you need to. Two jobs in one.
For a disc sander, make your own. I used an old motor and mounted a pulley
on it, then drilled and tapped three screw holes to hold a round piece of
MDF for the disc sandpaper base. You can stick the shaft of the motor out a
little past the pulley to use as a pilot center for the disc to keep it
centered. I made a rest for the wood out of some plywood and hinged it with
some piano hinge on the sides, so I can tilt the rest and sand bevels. On
the rest, I also put two threaded inserts to hold a fixed miter gauge so I
can repeat the same angle again and again.
this is a case where power is not real important. If you press hard enough
into the disc that you need a bigger motor, all you do is load up or ruin
the sandpaper. I think mine is about 1/5 HP, or about 4 amps.
"woodchucker" wrote in message
On 12/12/2014 5:58 PM, Sonny wrote:
I have a Ryobi handheld that is like the Bosch. It has a sanding frame
so it can be used for large flattening. The frame is great.
The flat top on it makes it easy to flip over but I don't need to use
it. Like I said b4.
or something similar, you need one. It's the most useful tool
in the shop, ideal for making tiny adjustments in length or
thickness, putting a quick chamfer on an edge, making a square-
section piece into a round section (I used mine to make the
mast & yards for my sailing dingy)...you'll find it's always
on your bench.
(* sometimes I think there's too many of us Johns)
Ridgid (two "d"s *) power tools are a bit unpredictable. Most of
them are made by Ryobi, I beleive, with corresponding quality.
A few of them are made by other vendors (some might even be
made by Emerson Electric, who actually own the Ridgid name and
make the Ridgid plumbers tools), which sometimes means a higher
(* the founder's name was Ridge)
I have no idea what "BS marks" might be but it sands OK to remove/shape
material. All plastics do but you get a buildup of fused particles along
the trailing edge. Easy to knock off with a file or knife.
As I mentioned elsewhere, most Ridgid tools are made by Ryobi.
I leave it to everyone's individual opinions as to the quality
of Ryobi tools, and whether Ridgid branded tools are better
or worse than Ryobi branded ones.
(but I agree that Menard's house brand is unlikely to be of
any better quality).
Not so long ago, if you wanted a plane your choice was either
rehabilitating an old Stanley, or buying from Lie-Nielsen.
Now there are more choices in quality planes, but out of
habit I always recommend L-N. (plus many of the Veritas
planes are just plain ugly, whereas the L-N all look like
a tool should look).
I have both. They are both good quality.
The veritas have some nice features. I like the set screws that center
the blade so you don't chip the blade on the corner. Wish the lie
nielsen would have that. I don't have any bronze castings, but a friend
does and he claims that they color his wood as he works with them and
curses them out. my bronze is in the handle on an 60 1/2 block plane, I
have the pre-nicker model.
I love my LN dovetail saw. Would like some of their bedrocks...
But I like my Veritas low angle #5. I like having multiple blades.
I understand. I probably collected at least 5 or 6 planes (including a
block plane and a low angle block plane), all for less than the $115 of
that one block plane.
I do enjoy admiring the Lie_Nielsen tools though, and others.
Woodworking show will be coming around next month.
Agreed, by all accounts they're fine planes and the other Lee
Valley stuff I have is good. Just some of them don't have the
classic look that a plane should have.
Can't say I've observed that. Years ago L-N occasionally did
planes in "German Silver", a nickle-based bronze. I have a
#2 (which I don't use) and the small block plane in it, and
it's probably the ideal metal for planes, except for the cost.
On Sat, 13 Dec 2014 22:00:20 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
Not really (made by Ryobi). Both are made by the parent company, TTI,
(the other name in the TTI group is "Milwaukee"). Ryobi is meant for
the low-end consumer market, while Ridgid is intended for the higher
end consumer and low end contractor. Milwaukee, of course, is
intended for the pro-sumer or industrial markets.
AIUI, Ridge (Emerson) owns the (Ridge and Ridgid) trademarks but
they're licensed to TTI, who actually manufactures most of the tools.
The tool biz is really convoluted.
Just adding to what you wrote:
In 2014, Tenex Capital Management New York City, NY acquired the JET,
POWERMATIC AND WILTON brands from Walter Meier and changed the company
name to JPW Industries where they continue to grow and outperform their
competition with innovative, quality products and services.
As if you didn't know, all of this consolidation is no good for us!
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